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Fish Health / Re: Tetra with unhealed injury
« Last post by fcmf on Today at 09:33:03 PM »
Thanks, both. I've put some Easylife Voogle in the tank for this evening, as it alleges it's not a medicine, it specifically claims that it's not harmful to molluscs (hope that includes nerites!), and its ingredients (according to http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=24101) aren't raising any alarm bells.

It's possible that someone may be able to pick up either https://www.aquarium-munster.com/en/fresh-water/remedies/dessamor.html (specifically states that it treats saprolegnia but struggling to find ingredients) or https://www.fishkeeper.co.uk/product/aquacare-anti-fungus-white-spot-100ml (doesn't specify saprolegnia but does contain malachite green and formaldehyde), so I may quarantine her tomorrow and start one of those treatments - any thoughts on which of the two?
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Fish Health / Re: Tetra with unhealed injury
« Last post by Sue on Today at 07:35:51 PM »
I'm afraid I don't know about assassins, Matt. I know most meds kill nerites as I have them. And I also have those tiny ramshorns and pond/tadpole/bladder etc snails, and the meds I've used haven't killed them.
But I've never had assassins.
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Fish Health / Re: Tetra with unhealed injury
« Last post by Matt on Today at 07:31:43 PM »
Sorry to jump into this thread fcmf but are Assassin snails one of the sensitive species @Sue mentions?

@fcmf I'd say its worth a try if you can remove the snail (or the fish?) (I have you down in my mind as having just the one tank at the moment like me??) Don't know if one of those medications is more likely to affect the plants in the tank?
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Fish Health / Re: Tetra with unhealed injury
« Last post by Sue on Today at 06:53:07 PM »
Melafix is more of an antiseptic, like dettol, rather than a medicine. Personally I don't like the way it smells so i don't use it.

The snails we want to keep are notoriously sensitive to medicines, unlike pest snails which would survive anything. If you do medicate the tank (especially with malachite green which contains copper) you will need to remove the snail for as long as the med is in the tank, and for a while after. Even after running several batches of carbon, I have killed nerites by putting them back too soon.
I remove my nerites whatever I add as a precautionary measure
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Fish Health / Re: Tetra with unhealed injury
« Last post by fcmf on Today at 06:36:43 PM »
https://youtu.be/uo0a5ZgWusY

Hmmm - the wound re-sprouted the white strands on Sunday which definitely seems like saprolegnia (as opposed to another type of fungus). Whether it falls off of its own accord this time is another matter. The fish has been swimming non-stop throughout the daytime under the waterfall for the past week or so - no pausing - I have an inkling that there's more to it (such as to detract from a feeling of itchiness). [Updated to add: also been swimming slightly nose up, rather like a penguin tetra, even on the odd occasion when she moves out of the waterfall area.]

Perhaps I ought to consider sending off for some malachite green or potassium permanganate (suggested remedies) - or just give the Melafix or EasyLife Voogle another try in the interim. What with the root tabs and the liquid fertiliser, it seems as though there are quite a lot of chemicals in the tank already. Will the addition of Melafix or EasyLife Voogle be too much (esp for the nerite snail)? I also have eSHa 2000 but had been reluctant to remove her to medicate due to her (still ongoing) good activity levels, colouring, appetite, etc.
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Fish Tank Plant Advice / Re: Floating plants for the surface
« Last post by Andy the minion on Today at 08:56:49 AM »
@fcmf Yes they can be difficult and frustrating, IMO water and plants are the tricky things in fishkeeping.
I moved the entire contents of my 200 litre tank into a bigger one at the back end of last year, the only thing that changed was part of the substrate [It was gravel and I now have plant root balls in their original gravel with sand filling the gaps and lightly covering the exposed gravel] However it has taken me the best part of 6 months to settle things down again and getting the plants growing or even not dying.
I almost lost all my Water lettuce, I was down to just a dozen sick plants, and remember I was trying to give this away when it was in the old tank.
I had a green hair algae outbreak that covered and nearly killed a Cryptocoryne forest that had spread to half the old tank. The Anubias was covered in black beard algae and the amazon sword leaves were dissolving and had both algae.
All my filters were choked with dissolving plant matter each week and this added to the maintenance work. This was with the same water, plants and idiot running the system.

The fix was patience and changing single things until I got back to a stable condition. The lights were the first, they were initially completely underpowered so I replaced one and then had too much light... I dialled back the photo period. I have stabilised the yeast CO2 with a second culture bottle and alternate biweekly changes (almost suffocated the fish with a CO2 overdose once) so I now have a air stone running when the lights are off as a temporary measure while I make a new CO2 reactor that will allow me to use my yeast CO2 regulator again and can switch the CO2 injection off during the night. This is all aimed at stable CO2 levels.
Finally I started dosing fertiliser twice weekly (half dose) and have gradually found the correct level.

So don't give up, measure the water parameters (KH and pH) and find out what CO2 level your water has - even if you don't want to add CO2 you need to know how much Carbon is naturally in the system. Check Phosphate levels (look longingly at FKS Coatbridge's small selection of plants, smile sweetly and see if they will do the tests for you ;) ) Have a look at the light spec and see if you can work out the Watts/litre (not a very useful number but it will give a clue if its is light that is needed) If you are not adding fertiliser try a small amount or perhaps add root tabs close to the plant.
If you add the results and comment on the effects to this thread over the weeks (it will be weeks I'm sure) you will get lots of other thoughts as well.
Chin-up and keep planting! If you would like some Water lettuce or Amazonian swords I now have loads again :)
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Fish Tank Plant Advice / Re: Plant deterioration - diagnosis & suggestions?
« Last post by Sue on August 20, 2017, 02:56:03 PM »
The problem with using CO2 in any form is that you have to make sure that lighting (intensity, wavelength & duration) and fertliser are in balance. Adding CO2 to tanks with slow growing plants, low intensity lighting and little to no fertliser will do nothing for plants, and may even encourage algae. Conversely, tanks with fast growing plants, high intensity lighting and lots of added fertliser won't do well without added CO2.
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Fish Tank Plant Advice / Re: Plant deterioration - diagnosis & suggestions?
« Last post by marquismirage on August 20, 2017, 02:45:29 PM »
The plant experts will correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is...

I'm not a plant expert but I've successfully grown a variety now and what you're saying is correct except the tank doesn't need to be fully stocked as a single fish of around 4 cm with food can provide enough for multiple plants.  I've seen tanks that have no filter at all and the plants and a few fish are kept in balance.  Amazing to see but beyond me at the moment.  With my fully stocked tanks and lots of plants I clean the exposed substrate once a week during water changes as the mess still builds up but the eco system keeps the water quality going for that week.  I could probably go for longer on a couple of tanks but why risk it.

CO2 will speed up a plants growth but is not vital.  If you're trying to get a complete aquascape garden in six months then CO2 will do it.  However, if you want to reduce constant plant trimming leave the extra CO2 out.  I've scrapped the CO2 system I was using on the Amazon tank and the plants are doing great.

@fcmf Looks like you have an emersed form so even if the plant looks to have completely died have patience with it and new leaves will grow.  This strain looks to have been produced from the original echinodorus harbich strain so even if it doesn't go red it's still in its genetic makeup to make good use of iron.
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Fish Tank Plant Advice / Re: Plant deterioration - diagnosis & suggestions?
« Last post by fcmf on August 20, 2017, 11:51:50 AM »
Thanks, both.

The echinodorus harbich is considered a 'red' plant and will greatly benefit from high lighting and micro nutrients, especially iron, as new leaves will be red before they turn green.
Thanks. Perhaps there are red strains of this plant but mine - what's left of it - is this http://www.aquariumgardens.co.uk/echinodorus-harbich-907-p.asp one and, when the leaves have turned brown, they've died.

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Fish Tank Plant Advice / Re: Plant deterioration - diagnosis & suggestions?
« Last post by Sue on August 20, 2017, 10:40:59 AM »
The plant experts will correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that a tank fully stocked with fish will produce enough nitrogen in the form of ammonia for the plants. Fish food contains potassium and phosphorus, the other two macronutrients, and this will feed the plants either directly from uneaten fish food or the fish excreting the excess in the food just like we do.
Uneaten fish food, fish poo, bits of dead plant etc end up in the substrate as we know from when we clean it during a water change. Bacteria in the substrate break this muck down and produce carbon dioxide, which is why adding CO2 is unnecessary for all but hi-tech tanks. Those people with a lot of plants rooted in gravel rarely clean the gravel because of the roots getting in the way and their tanks come to no harm from this.
[But those with few or no live plants do need to hoover up the muck in the gravel/on the sand  :) ]

I have even learned recently that you shouldn't clean up the dead spots under decor as that's where some anaerobic bacteria live.
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