Plants For New Aquarium

These sound fine - and you obviously know to attach java fern, java moss and anubias to decor 
Cryptocorynes are another easy plant, though they are prone to melting when you first get them as they don't like their roots being disturbed. These do need root tabs as they are hungry root feeders.

Water sprite can also be used as a floating plant. Floating plants are often referred to as ammonia sinks as they take up a lot of ammonia. I once used nothing but 2 large water sprite tanks from my main tank and 2 new bunches of elodea left to float when I set up a quarantine tank. I have 12 kuhli loaches in there, 25 litres, and never saw a trace of ammonia or nitrite during their stay in quarantine.


You mention fishless cycling - a lot of plants can't cope with a dose of ammonia added all in one go. They can cope with the same amount added in coninual tiny amounts over 24 hours, it's the all at once that harms some plants. And plants will remove the ammonia faster than bacteria can so a fishless cycle with plants in the tnak won't follow the usual progression.



You could think about a plant cycle. With this method, the tank is planted then you wait a couple of weeks. It helps to take a photo as soon as you've finished planting so you have something to compare the tank with after that couple of weeks. If the plants are growing well, add a few fish - and monitor ammonia and nitrite daily after each addition. If they stay at zero, good. After a couple of weeks, the next batch of fish can be added as the plants will have grown some more and some bacteria will also have grown in the background. As I already mentioned, floating plants are good for plant cycling and many fish like something over their heads.


Whichever you decide to do, live plants are a good addition to a tank 

I'll break my reply down into sections.

Hardness.
Hardness has about half a dozen different units of measurement (far worse than cm/inches, that's only got two). Fishkeeping uses just two units, dH (also called German degrees) and ppm (also called mg/l calcium carbonate). Fish profiles use one or other of these so you need to know your hardness in both.
2.24 Clarke = 1.8 dH and 32 ppm.
You have very soft water. Virtually all fish from south America and Asia will love your water. Fish to avoid are livebearers, Rift Lake cichlids and most species of rainbowfish (though there the odd couple that like soft water)

Shrimps do need some hardness minerals in their water, but I'm not sure if yours is too low. You could try a couple of shrimps and see how they get on, and if they are OK, get some more. Red cherry shrimps are the easiest. But they do better in a mature tank - one that has been running trouble free for at least 6 months - so they are best added later.


Cycling
There are three ways to cycle a tank - fish-in, fishless and silent (or plant)

Fish-in uses fish to excrete ammonia to grow the good bacteria, but this subjects the fish to ammonia and nitrite in the water which can harm them. We no longer recommend fish-in cycling because of this.

Fishless uses ammonia from a bottle to grow the bacteria before fish are put in the tank. This is much safer for the fish. But it does take several weeks to do a fishless cycle.

Plant/silent cycling relies on plants to remove the ammonia rather than bacteria and is becoming more popular as more fish keepers opt for live plants rather than fake.
To be honest, if you intend planting the tank with the plants in your list, I would do a plant cycle and not bother adding ammonia/ammonium chloride. It also means you'll be able to get fish quicker than with fishless cycling.


Vials

My plant substrate came with a couple of vials that it said I needed to break into the water.

I've googled the substrate and it says to put 1 cm water in the tank, add the vials, then add the substrate then sand. it doesn't say, but presumably you then fill the tank with water. They say

Our selection of mycorrhizae improves both the absorption capacity of the root system of your plants and strengthens the leaves resistance.

I know that most land plants have types of fungus associated with the roots which help the plants grow and it sounds as though these vials contain something similar.
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=633

Water conditioner
You need to add this when you fill up the tank. Chlorine or chloramine is added to the water supply to kill bad bacteria, but they also kill good bacteria, and harm fish when there are fish in a tank.
Some water conditioners are better than others, for example those which contain aloe vera are best avoided as long term use affects fish gills. Others detoxify ammonia for around 24 hours and these are useful where the water company uses chloramine (an ammonia and a chlorine joined together) as they make the ammonia part safe until the bacteria/plants have had time to remove it.


Testing tap water
It is also useful to know what comes out of the tap. I would test it for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.
With pH, test freshly run water then leave a glass of water to stand overnight and test that. You may well find they are different.
Nitrate is useful as we should aim to keep nitrate below 20 ppm, but there are places which have a lot more than that in the tap water. UK legislation allows up to 50 ppm in drinking water.


Once the tank is filled with water it is worth keeping an eye on the ammonia level for a few days as some plant substrates release ammonia and fish cannot be added until it stops. I've not heard of the one you have so I don't know if this one releases ammonia or not so it is safest to check.
If you choose to do a plant cycle, you'll need to wait a couple of weeks for the plants to establish themselves before getting fish, and this will give you time to check the water thoroughly.