Low Maintenance Aquarium Design

Weve all previously shared the tips and tricks we all use to make aquarium maintenance easier in terms of how we undertake water changes (e.g. using pumps to transfer water back into the tank).  I have been attempting to find ways to alter the design if my aquariums so they are easier to maintain recently with some successes...

Substrate:
Firstly I have added sand. This may sound counter intuitive as everyone knows about the risk of anaerobic gas pockets but my Malaysian trumpet snails take good care of this for me. The issue I was struggling with was the planting substrate kept falling from the back portion of the tank out onto the front sand section leaving very ugly brown particles of planting substrate on the sand. Since adding more sand so the level is higher in comparrison to the planting substrate I have just needed to grab a couple of bits of waste from the surface of the sand, rather than clear the whole sand area of bits of planting substrate making things a lot lot quicker. What i wish i had done when i put the tank together is used filter floss to separate the substrates as well as the rockwork so there were no gaps for the substrate to fall through.

Water change regime:
I have also  switched to doing a simple 50% water changes (literally just changing water using garden hose as a siphon to empty the tank to the back garden and refill using a mixer tap hose connector) every other week with a substrate siphoning on the opposite weeks (just one buckets worth (just shy of 10% of tank volume). This is supported by a low stocking level in the tank (AqAdvisor recommends a 22 % weekly water change given my filtration, tank size etc.). Note: I alao do not regularly siphon the planting substrate section as I rely on the dense plant growth to keep things in check in this regard.

Plant fertilisation:
I have also switched from a daily to a twice weekly fertilisation regime. I used to dose the tank daily, now I am much more relaxed about this and also dose less complete fertiliser in preference for a more "micros focussed" approach. This results in slower plant growth, again minimising tank maintenance and reduced nitrate levels allowing me to again go longer between water changes. I have observed no adverse effects as a result on plant growth nor on algae levels.

Clean up crew:
I already mentioned Malaysian trumpet snails, I also stock otocinclus, Amano and cherry shrimp, false julii corys. I wanted the variety of fish anyway but I'm also sure it helps significantly, especially the shrimp with eating any decaying plant matter. It is rare that I have to trim and remove leaves at a water change. The corys and snails are great at eating any leftover or sunken food too, and i know others have already sung the praises of otos recently.  I do think i mightbe missing a trick when it comes to gard atubborn algae on my rockwork though. I have heard horned nerites are an excellent help with this, I personally just can't stand the eggs around the tank. As such I intend to get juat the one and don't believe it will make a marked difference as a result.

Feeding:
This is also made a lot simpler through the use of the Eden 901 auto feeder which I now have in situ permanently. As it can keep the food fresh and free from moisture it can easily be used in the way. I do top up feeds with other frozen of fish specific foods at a weekend when I have more time on my hands, but this works well through the week, meaning I can effectively forget the tank if needs be for this period. The feeder also feeds 2 helpings a day splitting the amount of food given in two and again meaning less is wasted/miseed/falls to the substrate meaning less maintnenace. I have also chosen a food which I know everyone eats a as the staple Hikari micro pellets - these are well accepted, small enough for all mouths, and partially sinking so the corys etc get some.

Plant choices:
I have gone with all slow growing plants placed where at their biggest dimensions they will fit nicely without requiring constant trimming (taller plants at the back etc). There is one exception to help with algae control, this is currently hygrophila polysperma. I have used one of the true aquatic plants very successfully in the past, floating plants would be a great option too. You are looking for something that grows rapidly to soak up any excess nutrients and to help with algae control. Something that can easily be removed in large clumps without affecting the overall look and feel of the tank. Vallis for example which can simply have the tips trimmed is a great example though not a heavy water column feeder.

All of the above is moving me towards my end goal of only requiring any significant time input every other week. This gives me more time with my new son. I will caveat though that if I had any concern over fish health the regime would change very quickly back. So far though I don't have any such concerns.

Interested to hear others tips and tricks for low maintenance tank design???

[1] How do you control the population of Malaysian Trumpet Snails (MTS)?

I've not found the need to, I'm guessing by not over feeding?  My original probably makes it sounds otherwise I now realise... I did take a few out when I do the substrate clean every other week but it's only the few that get caught up along the way, I don't actively try to remove them.

[2] I have a problem with floating plants because I have sliding condensation windows over my tank. This results in water droplets forming that drip onto floating plants. It seems that many/most floating plants don't take too well to this.

You're absolutely right and me too... I had most success with Limnobium laevigatum

[3] Congratulations on the birth of your son. Have you started teaching him about aquascaping, yet?

Thanks, and whilst we haven't quite progressed to aquascaping, I do often sit him in front if the tank which he finds relaxing (or sometimes amusing depending on his mood). It definately has quite a profound calming effect 

Floating plants:

The ones that have most trouble with condensation droplets are those with hairy leaves. I used to have Salvinia, either natans or minima, the seller called them one but they looked like the other. I lost it all during a heatwave one summer a few years ago due to condensation, and I didn't have cover glasses in that tank, just a lid.

The two floating plants that don't have hairy leaves are duckweed ( ) and water sprite. I now have a tank with cover glasses, and water sprite. The old plants do go brown, but I just pull them out and pull off any plantlets growing on the leaves (well, fonds since it's a fern). The fish and shrimps like the roots too.

Hi @Sue

Thanks for the feedback. That's very helpful.

JPC