Item For Discussion - How Do You Refill The Tank After A Water Change?

Author Topic: Item for discussion - how do you refill the tank after a water change?  (Read 5682 times) 18 replies

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
Most of us use one of two methods when doing a water change. We either empty the tank into a bucket with a siphon tube then refill with a bucket, adding dechlorinator to each bucketful of new water. Or we empty water out using a hosepipe, add dechlorinator to the tank then refill through the hosepipe.

There is a school of thought that both of these are not as safe as we might think. There is a suggestion that while dechlorinators react with chlorine instantly it takes time for every single chlorine molecule to meet a dechlorinator molecule. In other words, when refilling with a hose there is chlorine in the tank for several minutes before it is all removed and during this time it can affect both fish and bacteria. Even using a bucket is not safe as it takes time for every single chlorine to be removed.

It has been suggested that we should let each bucket of water stand for 30 minutes before pouring it into the tank. Or leave an airstone running in the bucket for 5 minutes. This allows time for every chlorine to meet a dechlorinator. For those with large tanks, the suggestion is to run the new water into a very large container (or several small ones), add dechlorinator, wait half an hour then use some sort of pump to refill the tank from the container.


If we could be certain that our water company uses chlorine, then leaving the new water to sit overnight would allow chlorine to gas off. But some water companies use chloramine which doesn't gas off. And virtually all dechlorinators also contain something to detoxify metals, important for tanks that have invertebrates such as shrimps and snails. Most of us will always use dechlorinators for one or both of those reasons.



Discuss........

Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
I'll start off by saying I use the bucket method. When refilling, I put the dechlorinator in the bucket then run the water in as fast as the tap allows. My kitchen tap runs water in very fast. Even after I have refilled the kettle, set it to boil and carried the bucket in the next room the water is still churning around as shown by the particles of limescale from the kettle.
I can quite see that if the water is run then the dechlorinator is added it could take some time for it to mix in thoroughly. But going by the frothing and bubbling as I run the cold water into the bucket, and the fact it is a couple of minutes later before the water goes in the tank, I feel that my fish and bacteria are safe.

Besides, if I had to leave each bucketful to stand for 30 minutes, it would take 5 hours to refill the tank and I'm just not that patient.

Offline Vanadia

  • Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 92
  • Likes: 8
  • Tropical Fish Keeper
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
I fill my buckets in the evening, running the water through a nitrate reducing filter (the water in my area has very high nitrates), leave them overnight with a heater so they can reach a similar temperature to the tank water.

I then add dechlorinator and aquarium vitamins to the buckets in the morning about 15-20 minutes before I do the water change.

Offline Matt

  • @scapeeasy on Instagram
  • Global Moderator
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2775
  • Likes: 302
  • www.scapeeasy.co.uk
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
I use the hose method described. Worth mentioning thought, that I switch off the filter to mitigate any risks here, I also use more dechlorinator than I would otherwise so the effect is "more instant". My view would be that if we were to answer this scientifically, we would need to know both the concentration of chlorine and the duration of exposure which is harmful to fish. Too much of anything over too long a period is harmful to any life. It looks like I have approximately 0.7mg/l of chlorine in my tap water. (I believe the water I recieve has also been treated with UV prior to leaving the treatment works too)
 Any from a quick Google I'm struggling to find reliable number for toxic chlorine levels to fish over a half hour period. One site uses a figure of 0.3mg/l but doesn't really justify this, and there is no duration given.  If this figure is approximately right, then I feel reasonably comfortable that my method is ok. @Sue makes a very good point thought bout aerating water to help remove chlorine. Boiling also helps too, so I will look to a) raise the hose above the water level when refilling. B) more googling... does my combi boiler help to remove chlorine in the hot tap water at all? Probably a little but not much I imagine...

Whilst not something I personally do, running water through activated carbon can also help remove chlorine I believe...

To add to all this, can most of us actually be sure we are treating for chlorine and not chloramine?

As with many of these things, there are a lot of factors at play... and finding reliable data is not always that easy in an internet enabled world.

Offline Warwick Fishman

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 1
  • Likes: 0
  • Tropical Fish Forum User
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
I have 2 tanks, when I do a water change I use a bucket (2 bucket fulls). I turn off the filters and heaters. However I don't use any dechlorinator and I have never had any problem with my fish afterwards. I live in a hard water area. Am I just lucky?

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Chocolate Gourami (1) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
The proponents of the letting the water stand for 30 minutes believe that any chlorine or chloramine that touches a fish will harm it. They argue that just because you can't see the harm doesn't mean it is not being done. But how many of us do see ill effects from the new water?
If we put the new water in just one part of the tank - and turn the filter off -  the fish can keep well away till all the chlorine has gone. Those of us with internal filters have to turn them off during a water change.
But I am aware that people who have externals can, and do, leave their filters running during a water change. In this case, the new water is circulated round the whole tank straight away and the dilution of both chlorine and dechlorinator means it would take longer for every last chlorine to come into contact with a dechlorinator molecule.



As for not using a dechlorinator, this is possible though again the proponents of letting the new water stand would disagree. Chlorine will gas off from the tank, though chloramine won't. The initial reaction of most of us will be - but what about the bacteria, they'll die. In a mature tank the bacteria are embedded deeply in the biofilm which protects them against the effects of chlorine. In newly set up tanks, the bacteria won't be well protected yet, so personally I would always use a dechlorinator in new tanks for the first year.



In years gone by, it was normal practice to leave water to stand at least overnight before use. Some let it stand even longer. But those were the days when chlorine was used everywhere. The more recent use of chloramine means that letting the water stand no longer works to remove chlorine from tap water.

Offline jaypeecee

  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 624
  • Likes: 59
  • Still learning...
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
Hi Folks,

Interesting discussion. It's so long since I used tap water for my tanks that I have forgotten how I used to do water changes at that time. So many factors to consider. Also, when dechlorinators go to work on chloramine, they break it down into chlorine and ammonia. So, dechlorinators not only have to deal with chlorine and chloramine, they then have to remove the ammonia. And the heavy metals. Such products should really be known as tap water conditioners, not simply 'dechlorinators'. I note that King British De-Chlorinator states:

"King British De-Chlorinator makes tap water safe for fish by instantly removing contaminants from the water that cause skin and gill membrane irritation, including chlorine, chloramines, heavy metals and excess ammonia".

The above product contains sodium thiosulphate, EDTA, sodium sulphite and Aloe vera.

I'll stick with remineralized RO water.

JPC

Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
Using remineralised RO does make the decision a lot easier as there's no chlorine/chloramine in it. There's also no metals. You don't have to worry about harming anything  :)

Offline jaypeecee

  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 624
  • Likes: 59
  • Still learning...
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
So, dechlorinators not only have to deal with chlorine and chloramine, they then have to remove the ammonia.

Just a thought - would there be any benefit in measuring chlorine and ammonia before, during and immediately after a water change? If that's too much, what about before and after? We'll leave the heavy metals for the moment!

JPC


Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
You could try.
The amount of both would be quite small, and you'd have to wait for them both to mix in thoroughly, so about half an hour after the last water change or you'd risk taking the sample from either a low concentration or a high one and getting false readings. Testing in the middle of a water change would also be hit and miss, especially if the filter is turned off. Even testing a bucket of water would be hit and miss unless it had been allowed to stand, if the scenario under discussion is correct. But by that time, all the chlorine should have been removed.

One thing that would be interesting would be to run a bucket of water and test for ammonia. Then add dechlorinator at the correct dose for the volume of the bucket, allow it to stand for 30 minutes (or run an airstone in it for 5 minutes) and test for ammonia again. Even with those dechlorinators which 'detoxify' ammonia, any ammonia from chloramine should register. Obviously there wouldn't be any reading where chlorine is used but it would be interesting to know just how much ammonia is in the water after dechlorinator splits up chloramine.



As a side issue, those dechlorinators which contain something to 'stimulate the slime coat' such as aloe vera are not good for the fish. We looked into this a while ago and while we could find dechlorinators that did not contain any of these chemicals, none of them also detoxified ammonia. Luckly for me my water company uses chlorine, so I can use API Tap Water Conditioner which contains only thiosulphate for removing chlorine and EDTA for binding metals. Anyone with chloramine in their tap water would have to add a separate ammonia detoxifier - but so many of them also contain a 'slime coat promoter'  :-\

Offline Vanadia

  • Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 92
  • Likes: 8
  • Tropical Fish Keeper
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
Why are the dechlorinators which contain aloe vera bad for fish? I have always used Stress Coat.

Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
It is now known that these additives (and there are others besides aloe vera) coat the fish's gills. Wherever practical it is better to avoid these dechlorinators.
If we have chlorine in the water supply it's easy - use API Tap Water Conditioner. Or if you have a lot of tanks, buy sodium thiosulphate and make your own. But if the water supply contains chloramine you need a dechlorinator that also contains something to detoxify ammonia. All the dechlorinators that do this also contain aloe vera or some other 'slime coat stimulator'.

The only way to be sure which your water company uses is to contact them. But phrase the question carefully. When I asked mine, they just sent me the water quality report and those don't mention which disinfectant they use.






Another distinct advantage to API Tap Water Conditioner is that it is very concentrated and a bottle lasts ages. The dose rate for chlorine is 1 drop per American gallon, that's 1 drop per 3.75 litres new water (the huge bottle is even more concentrated but that would reach the expiry date long before the bottle was even half used unless you have a whole fish room or a pond) The small bottles have a lid with a dropper built in, the larger sizes have a lot with a measuring cup. I would buy the 1 fl oz/30 ml size first then when that's finished get the 4 fl oz/118 ml and use that to fill up the small bottle.

Offline Hampalong

  • Global Moderator
  • Rocking Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 497
  • Likes: 55
  • aka Mark
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
Why are the dechlorinators which contain aloe vera bad for fish? I have always used Stress Coat.

As said already, it coats the fishes’ gills, although it doesn’t seem to have an adverse effect in small doses. I use Haloex which contains aloe vera, but at a small proportion of 1ml per 20 litres I’m not too worried. The main reason I’ve never used anything else with it in is... why on earth would I? For one thing, Aloe vera is a plant that grows in semi-deserts. Why would I add it’s juice to my fish? Another thing is, why would I want to aid my fishes’ mucus production? They already have enough.

The whole Aloe vera thing with regard to fish was just a huge gimmick. AV became the latest health craze. It was good for just about everything, so obviously it was also going to sell if they say it’s good for fish. And everyone fell for it. Nobody asked “why would my fish need help with mucus production when they’re producing enough already?”
The whole gimmick played on the myth that a water change is a risk to fish health, and the fish need protecting from the new water, whereas the reality is that only a bad water change, with ‘bad’ water (chlorine, temperature, different hardness and pH etc) is a bad thing. A water change with good, appropriate water is always a good thing and fish need no protection at all from it. They just need the chlorine/chloramine/ammonia gone and the metals neutralised. Good water is much better for them than Aloe vera.

:)

I use a water butt for water changes. It holds 50 gallons and does a 45% on my 6x2x2. It has 5 old kernackered heaters in it that don’t turn off anymore. Before I use it I plug em in. Takes a few hours to get up to temperature. When it’s ready I syphon half the tank into an outside drain, then put the drain end of the pipe onto the pond pump that’s in the water butt. That pumps the water butt into the tank. Then I refill the butt from the tap, add haloex, and leave it for a week with a little internal filter full of PolyFilter to (almost) purify it.

I don’t need the haloex if there’s just chlorine in it, but at certain peak times my water board will use chloramine instead. From what they told me, most if not all UK water authorities use chloramine at least occasionally, as and when required.

Offline Vanadia

  • Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 92
  • Likes: 8
  • Tropical Fish Keeper
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
My StressCoat has nearly run out so maybe I will try a different dechlorinator this time. It seems safer to use a dechlorinator that removes both chlorine and chloramine as the water companies could occasionally to use it. I guess there is no way of testing for this?

Does anyone know if the Seachem products such as Prime contain aloe vera? I can't see it mentioned on the packaging at all, but it does mention slime coat!

Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
Seachem won't say what's in Prime. But the fact that they claim so many things for it means it's a cocktail of chemicals which personally I wouldn't allow anywhere near my tanks!

Does anyone know how much ammonia is left from chloramine? Enough to harm the fish? Enough to actually show up in our tests? Occasionally I have tested a bucket of new water after adding dechlorinator and had no trace of ammonia.

Offline Littlefish

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 4076
  • Likes: 330
  • aka Donna
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
I sort of use the bucket method.

The area I live in has high nitrates, so I have a filter that I attach to the tap to deal with that. The only down side is that water flow has to be slow to ensure the nitrate is removed. I have several 25L containers, which I've measured and marked for 20L (easier for me to lift), and I add the water conditioner before filling with water. It takes around 10 minutes to fill to the 20L mark. I fill several containers before starting tank maintenance (to avoid getting distracted and flooding the house).

I have FX external filters on the larger tanks. I tend to run a long hose from the drain port, and water the garden whilst draining around 40% of the water. I then pooh hoover the substrate, which is much easier for me to do with a lower level of water. Using a shorter hose on the drain port, I put the other end of the hose into a bucket, and empty the containers of treated water into the bucket to be pumped into the tank. 

I've never considered the issues of mixing the water conditioner previously, though I'm guessing that my current system on larger tanks should provide enough mixing to deal with any issues. I'm also lucky that my biggest tanks (river tank and axolotl tank) are both cold water, so I don't heat the water. I also use some RO in the river tank.

For my smaller tanks I have 10L water containers, and follow a similar system as described above, but also add some hot water after using the nitrate removal filters.

This has given me a lot to think about. I think my system for the larger tanks is ok as it usually takes a few hours to run the water, drain the tank, pooh hoover, and refill. It also involves a lot of water movement, and pouring treated water from the 25L containers into the bucket should ensure good mixing.

Slightly off topic of chlorine/chloramine, but also part of water changes, my tap water comes out at around pH7, but when left eventually settled as around 8.2-8.4. Can we throw pH fluctuations into the discussion as well?


Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
Or make pH the next topic?

Offline Littlefish

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 4076
  • Likes: 330
  • aka Donna
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
That would be great.  ;D

Offline Sue

  • Global Moderator Subscriber
  • Superstar Think Fishy Member
  • *
  • Posts: 9866
  • Likes: 403
  • Likes On This Users Post 0
During today's water changes, I tested the dechlorinated water in the bucket for ammonia. Zero. Either my water company doesn't use chloramine (or at least, not today) or they do but the amount of ammonia is so small it can't be measured.

Tags:
 


Assess Tankmates In The Tropical Fish Community Creator


Topics that relate to "Item for discussion - how do you refill the tank after a water change?"

  Subject - Started by Replies Last post
4 Replies
3279 Views
Last post January 28, 2014, 11:25:19 AM
by Sue
6 Replies
3562 Views
Last post July 26, 2014, 01:33:37 PM
by Flaree123
11 Replies
5450 Views
Last post May 24, 2016, 03:04:41 PM
by Cora
5 Replies
3041 Views
Last post October 09, 2016, 05:12:37 PM
by Charlotte
14 Replies
4012 Views
Last post June 30, 2018, 09:35:29 AM
by Sue
10 Replies
5943 Views
Last post August 18, 2019, 07:48:02 PM
by Matt
47 Replies
6686 Views
Last post February 07, 2020, 05:51:51 PM
by fcmf

Sitemap 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 
Legal | Contact Follow Think Fish on: