Hi Adam, welcome to forum

I can answer some of your questions and give you a few pointers.
Cycling the tank -
Modern fish food is designed not to make much ammonia when it breaks down so it is not a very good ammonia source for cycling. And even if it did break down to make lots of ammonia, you have no way of knowing how much ammonia in terms of ppm per day it makes so you can't know how many bacteria you have grown.
A much better way of cycling is using a bottle of ammonia. Ebay and Amazon are good sources, and my local diy shop stocks Jeyes KleenOff Household Ammonia.
The way to use fish food or prawns is to add them to a bucket of water, wait for them to go off then measure the ammonia level of the water. Using that figure, calculate how much of the water in the bucket you need to get the tank level to 3 ppm.
Just a warning - API Quick Start may contain the right species of ammonia eating bacteria but the wrong species of nitrite eating bacteria. The use of the correct species has been copyrighted (or whatever the correct term is) so that only Dr Tims One & Only and Tetra Safe Start can use the correct species. This means you will grow ammonia eaters fairly quickly but then get stuck at the nitrite eater stage.
Air stones are mainly decorative. As long as the filter is moving the water round the tank so that it pushes the surface water across the tank, down the far side and back along the bottom of the tank, that is fine.
Air stones can be useful in heat waves or when treating diseases like whitespot which need higher water temps. The warmer the water the less oxygen it holds and the extra churning of the water caused by the bubbles helps more oxygen to dissolve.
Fish -
Small fish like galaxy rasboras (aka celestial pearl danios or cpd's) and salt & pepper cories (Corydoras habrosus) do better in larger shoals. You might have trouble finding shops that have salt & pepper cories. A commonly stocked alternative is pygmy cories, which again need at least 10.
Your list contains both hard water fish (guppies) and soft water fish (neons and cories). Have a look at your water company's website, that should have your hardness somewhere. Make a note of the number and also the unit. They could use one of half a dozen units, and you may need to convert their number to one of the two units used in fishkeeping. If they give the unit as mg/l, we also need to know if that's mg/l Ca or mg/l CaO or mg/l CaCO
3.
Let us know the hardness when you find it and we can see which fish are more suited to your water

It will take a few weeks to cycle the tank so you have time to fine-tune your wish list.
As for your pH, is the figure you gave freshly run tap water or water that's stood a while? If it's from the tank and it was more than a few hours after you filled it, that counts as 'stood' water.
If you get all your fish at one go, you don't need a quarantine tank.
Tell us your rough location (north or east etc of the county is plenty) and if other members use shops in that locality they can advise on the better ones.
Quick question - what testers are you using? I ask because a nitrate of zero is unusual - most tap water has some, anything up to 50 ppm. Nitrate is the most common test to get wrong because with liquid reagent testers, one of the reagents settles out on the bottom of the bottle and failure to shake the bottle enough causes inaccurate readings.
Filter -
I have googled CF80 and it finds the
Ciano CF80. Is this your filter?
I have not come across this filter before so I can't comment on how noisy it is compared to other filters. There is no silent filter but some are quieter than others. I use Eheim Biopowers in my 180 litre, their Aquaball filter range uses the same pumps and there is one suitable for 60 litres. They do hum a bit, more so if you get air trapped in the impeller well (tilt the filter while it is running to dislodge the air).
Other members may be able to recommend quieter filters.
Hmmm, and you thought you wrote a novel
