Fish Tank Cycling Query

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Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #40 on: February 04, 2016, 09:26:34 PM »
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Thanks Sue, i'll have a look at them  :)

But back to topic.....Help!!!! lol

I have just tested my tank water 24hrs after adding full dose:
Ammonia 0.25ppm
Nitrite 0.25ppm
pH 7.5

I seem to be going backwards? the last 3 times i have added a full dose of 3ppm after getting 0ppm i have not had a 0 ammonia reading, but my nitrites have been zeroed, now they are not? and my pH in the tank has dropped from 7.8 (that was last measured 01/01/16) should this be happening?

I haven't added anything yet, not sure whether i should?, so i'll wait to hear your thoughts.

Offline Sue

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #41 on: February 04, 2016, 09:40:43 PM »
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7.5 isn't too bad - not like the drop to below 6 that I had last time - but keep an eye on it and add more bicarb if it starts to drop further.

What I'd do now is wait 2 days and see what the results are. In they are zero add another 3ppm and test 24 hours later. The bacteria won't starve, and that 48 hours will give them chance to get rid of what's there now.

Don't forget that the ammonia test is notoriously difficult to read under compact fluorescent energy saving bulbs. if they are what you have, see if you can find an old incandescent bulb somewhere. Or a halogen bulb if you have those. Those energy savers are one of the causes of people complaining they've never seen a zero ammonia result.
I must experiment with the ammonia test under LED bulbs.....

Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #42 on: February 04, 2016, 09:50:40 PM »
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Thanks Sue, i'll give that a go, i was concerned that the nitrites had not gone this time around, i did check my levels 2 hrs after dosing it last night just to make sure it was not sky rocketing (2.7ml for 84ltrs) and it showed between 3-4ppm ammonia so that must be right, so like you said let them eat up before feeding again lol

Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #43 on: February 09, 2016, 04:11:24 PM »
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Hello again!
I have been decorating my tank over the weekend, whilst waiting for it to cycle (it seems to be going backwards at the moment!) and added the wood that i had been soaking and some live plants.
I tested the pH of the water today, and it has dropped to 6.6/6.8 (like the water in the bucket i was soaking it in) now this is OK for the fish i was thinking of keeping, in fact ideal, but then it i thought...what about future water changes? my pH out the tap as you know is 7.5, will adding this to the tank hurt the fish while the wood does it's job? or would i have to treat the water first? or even remove the wood altogether?

Offline Sue

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #44 on: February 09, 2016, 04:17:07 PM »
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If you do 2 15% water changes a week rather than 1 25% water change, the new water won't have as much impact on the pH and the fish should be fine.
You may find in time that the tank pH begins to creep up towards tap level as the tannins leaching from the wood become exhausted.

Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #45 on: February 09, 2016, 04:35:21 PM »
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Thanks Sue,
My cycle as i said, seems to be going backwards, i left it for 48hrs like you said, and checked parameters, Amm and Nitrite were 0ppm, i only added 2ppm Ammonia on Saturday, and have done for the last 3 days, but it will not clear all the ammonia in 24hrs, my test kit has shown 0.25ppm on everyone, my nitrites have varied between 0ppm and 5ppm and my nitrates are still unreadable. should i try something different or just carry on as normal? i started the cycle on  09/01/16.

Offline Sue

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #46 on: February 09, 2016, 04:53:14 PM »
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The ammonia tester can be very tricky. Some people do find it impossible to tell the difference between the 1 and 0.25 colours. It is not uncommon for people to have had tanks for years, full of healthy fish with an ammonia of 0.25, which is put down to the problems reading the tester.

Nitrite is different; it is usually very easy to tell that zero sky blue from even a hint of purple below 0.25.
Does nitrite ever drop to zero, and how long after adding the ammonia? If it is over 1ppm when you test, don't add 2ppm ammonia, just add 1ppm - but that is only when you also have zero ammonia twice, two days apart. Adding too much ammonia, even though nitrite is not going off the top of the scale, might be leading to too much nitrate which can also have a detrimental effect on the bacteria, coupled with the falling pH. These bacteria like high pH to multiply.

Thinking about it, remove the wood till the cycle finishes. If you can bear the thought, empty as much water as possible from the tank, refill it with warm water adding bicarb as you do so, then add 3ppm ammonia. This won't harm the bacteria you have already grown, they are nice and safe inside the filter (and on everything else in the tank) but it will reset the water back to low nitrate and high bicarb. Then test in 2 days, and again in another 2 days. If you have 2 zero ammonias, go by the nitrite readings.
If nitrite is over 1ppm at the same time as the second zero ammonia, add 1ppm ammonia; if nitrite is below 1 at that reading, add 3ppm.






I have 0.5ppm ammonia and 5+ppm nitrite today for the first time. It is day 28.

Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #47 on: February 09, 2016, 05:05:00 PM »
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Yeah, the ammonia never seems to show as the yellow printed on the card, so maybe i am being to cautious on that one? at worst it has been a very light green which i am reading as o.25ppm?, my nitrite when i tested it yesterday was 0ppm, but today i had a reading 0.25ppm? ammonia but nitrite was about 4ppm, i did do a 50% water change on Sunday night to try and reduce the nitrates, but it was still off the charts after the change, so maybe i should do another one today?

Offline Sue

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #48 on: February 09, 2016, 05:12:04 PM »
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That sounds like the ammonia tester being awkward.

I would do the really big water change (and remove the wood) mainly because of the current pH. Don't forget to add enough bicarb to replace the amount you take out with the water. Check the pH afterwards.

Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #49 on: February 09, 2016, 05:19:40 PM »
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Well that's me busy for a while lol, i'll let you know how it goes  :)

Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #50 on: February 10, 2016, 08:57:19 PM »
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ARRGGGHHHHH!!!

I swear this is driving me crazy lol

Si, i changed 90% of my water last night to reduce the nitrates, let the tank settle for an hour and took some readings- amm 0.25ppm, nitrite 0ppm, nitrate 5ppm, happy days  :) so i added the 3ppm amm and left if for 24hrs

24hrs later- (8.30pm) amm 3ppm, nitrite 0ppm? so, i scratched my head a bit....i had forgot to add bicarb on the water change like you suggested...pH 6...or less but thats as low as the kit goes!!

Does that mean that my cycle has now crashed and i'm back to square one? i have added bicarb now, just letting it circulate for an hour or so then i will check pH again. I am really concerned that if this happens with the fish i'm going to have alot of casualties.

Any ideas? 

Offline Sue

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #51 on: February 10, 2016, 09:09:00 PM »
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The low pH shouldn't have harmed the bacteria, just stunned them a bit. Keep a check on the levels every day to make sure they are all OK.

These bacteria prefer a high pH. What people with very low pH from the tap do is to cycle with added bicarb then let the pH drop (usually be doing small water changes to remove the bicarb a bit at a time). As the pH falls slowly, the individual bacteria that really don't like lower pH will stop multiplying but those that can cope will still multiply. As the pH drops lower and lower, the ones that can't cope will be 'weeded out' leaving just those bacteria which can cope and they end up with a colony of low pH bacteria. This does take longer than the usual cycle as first you have to grow a full colony of bacteria then drop the pH.

With your hardness, you could try this and be able to keep some species that the rest of us only dream of. Or add something (coral, limestone, remineralisation salts) to prevent the pH dropping.

Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #52 on: February 10, 2016, 10:44:51 PM »
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Thanks Sue,
I added bi carb and the pH is now 7.8, i have not added any Ammonia, so i will leave it for 24 hrs and test again.
I did add 2 5ml spoonfuls of crushed coral to the filter after the change (maybe thats why i forgot about the bi carb) but that hasn't made any difference in 24hrs (obviously!) maybe that was not enough or too soon to tell?
Maybe i'll have a walk around garden centers/ fish shops and try to find a piece of limestone/tufa, that might work quicker than coral?

Offline Sue

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #53 on: February 11, 2016, 12:04:06 PM »
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Remember that calcium carbonate is officially insoluble in water. It does dissolve but slowly. Limestone/tufa also make nice decor.

A few years ago I did test some crushed coral. I put a layer about 1cm deep in a plastic tub, and filled it with water. I also set up another tub with just water to sit alongside as a control. After a week I tested the pH, GH and KH of both tubs.
The pH was 0.2 higher in the coral water compared to the plain water, and both GH and KH were 2 german deg higher in the coral water.
I did use a bigger proportion of coral to water coral than you'd use in the tank (unless it was used as substrate about 5 cm deep) so the effect of this test is greater than would be found in a tank, but you can see the effect I was getting after 7 days.

Offline Knight

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #54 on: February 22, 2016, 10:57:19 PM »
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Well it's been a while since my last post, things were a bit bleak after the ph crash, and it took a couple of days for the bacteria to recover , but i left them alone and followed from step 8, waited for my 2 zero ammonia results, got them but nitrite was still high, so added 1ppm amm, waited 2 days, then got step 10 result yesterday, so i added full 3ppm dose and have just tested now.....
Ammonia 4ppm???
Nitrite 5ppm
Nitrate 80ppm

I don't know how my ammonia level has actually increased at this point? I have just changed 20/25% of the water which has fetched the ammonia level down to approx 2ppm and nitrite to about 3ppm.

Should i now wait for the amm/nitrite levels to reduce to 0, and then dose to 1ppm again, or dose back up to full 3ppm when they have dropped, pH did drop from 7.8 to 7.5 2 days ago but has not moved since.

Just as a side issue, i purchased some tetra test strips over the weekend (mainly for the kh/gh ) and when i got the above results, i thought i would test them out!! The results where a bit alarming to say the lease.

Nitrite 0ppm (safe)
Nitrate 100ppm
pH 7.2

They don't have an ammonia test on them, but they look along way from accurate!!!

Any advice, as always, is greatly appreciated.

Tony

Offline fcmf

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #55 on: February 23, 2016, 08:23:47 AM »
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I'll leave Sue/others to advise you on the main part of your queries due to their greater expertise in this particular area.

Just as a side issue, i purchased some tetra test strips over the weekend (mainly for the kh/gh ) and when i got the above results, i thought i would test them out!! The results where a bit alarming to say the lease.
* You mentioned that your PH was 7.5 on the most recent reading and that the Tetra test strip showed it as 7.6; the PH on the Tetra test strips goes up in 0.4 increments ie 7.2 and 7.6, so that sounds that it's giving a similar reading to your other test kit, and therefore that probably is where it lies.
* You mentioned that your nitrate was 80ppm on the most recent reading and that the Tetra test strip showed it as 100; the nitrate on the Tetra test strips has 50 and then 100 as the next level, so that again sounds that it's giving a similar reading to your other test kit, but that the other test kit may be able to pinpoint more accurately where between 50 and 100 it lies.
* As for the nitrite, that seems to be where the discrepancy is. The options on the Tetra test strip are 0, 1, 5 and 10. If you've shaken the vial vigorously, and your liquid test kit is easy to read, then your 5ppm or 3ppm reading may well the more accurate one.
Generally, people tend to find the liquid-based test kits more accurate but I don't necessarily find that (thread somewhere on this forum about that) and find some of the liquid-based ones difficult to read which is why I like both types to check one against the other.

Offline Sue

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Re: Fish Tank Cycling query
« Reply #56 on: February 23, 2016, 09:54:16 AM »
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I find the ammonia test colours hard to distinguish once you get above 2. That's the downside to using 3ppm doses, there is no colour for 3ppm with the API tester so you have to estimate half way between 2 and 4. While I was waiting for my ammonia to drop it was going up and down like a yoyo over a ppm or two.

I'm not sure what to suggest next. I do realise you will be getting impatient for fish soon but I would be inclined to wait a bit longer, keeping on with the 1ppm doses. The danger comes with adding too much ammonia and creating too much nitrite or nitrate, both of which can inhibit the bacteria.
Do you know a shop that will test the water for you using a different brand tester? It would be interesting to see what they get.

 


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