Water Changes

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Offline Stuart

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Water Changes
« on: December 12, 2012, 11:33:18 AM »
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Before I start just let me say... I know, I treat this site like a blooming hotel. I only ever drop in when I need something. I apologise  :-[

My main tank is situated under my stairs. Water changes usually envolve me balancing a 36 litre water container, on my stairs so I can syphon water back into my tank. But I have a plan!!!

How about, I cut my pipe which takes water from my tank to my external filter, slip in a "T" joint, and run another pipe from the 3rd joint in the "T" joint that is long enough to reach the bottom of my 36 Litre water container. A valve on each of the pipes that run from the tank to the "T" joint and from the "T" joint to the water container, would mean I could then force the filter to take water from the container instead of the tank, filling up my tank!

However, when I suggested this to one of my lfs' he advised against it, as even treated tap water could wipe out my filter bacteria, although he seemed less concerned when I pitched the idea of using R.O water instead of tap water (I will soon be going over to a discus setup).

Is this a real threat or is my lfs being over cautious? I intend to put a small heater in the water container before doing a water change so temperature shouldn't be a problem.

In addition, I have a uv light on my filter which I don't usually use, would it be an idea to use this more often or all the time when I have Discus or would it cause the same problem as normal, ie:making the fish more likely to catch something in the long run as there immune system is not as strong?

Thanks, as always, for any and all replies.

Stuart.

Offline Sue

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2012, 02:08:38 PM »
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I just had to draw a diagram to see what you meant  ;D


Why not put the T-joint in the pipe returning the water to the tank rather than the one that takes water out? That way you wouldn't be pulling the new water straight into the filter, it would mix with the old water still in the tank before getting into the filter. Or would an external not work like that?
The only thing that would worry me a bit is you would be introducing a weak point into the pipe. That might be just me being paranoid about causing a flood though  ;D


The UV on the filter. OK, I freely admit I've pinched this from somewhere else.
1. It is mainly stressed fish that get sick, and the fish in your tank should not be stressed. If they are getting sick, you should question what is causing them to get stressed and sick. UV will stop the fish getting sick, and this could well mask poor husbandry - the fish are still stressed, just not getting sick any more.
2. Because there are no pathogens in the tank when using UV, the fish will not be able to build up resistance to background levels. If anything happens to the UV you could well suddenly have a tank with pathogens and fish with no resistance to them, resulting in sick fish.
3. In order to keep the UV working properly, the bulb needs changing regularly before the old one becomes ineffective - or you'll end up with sick fish as in point 2.

Offline Natalia

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2012, 10:58:47 PM »
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Hi Stuart and Sue,
Some thoughts on the UV filter benefits. I totally agree with what Sue has pinched from else where. HOWEVER. The UV filters do have a very good reputation – and deservedly so. For example, running a UV filter allows to avoid setting up a quarantine tank. Whatever the new fish may have will not be transmitted to the “old” ones and even if it will, the duration, intensity and fish recovery rates will be high. Also, I found that a UV filter is the ONLY way of treating/stopping the spread of the dreaded rainbowfish desease.  Mycobacterium or something else, some of the rainbowfish (especially extensively bread) have, does not affect other species if a UV filter is run.
A few months ago – close to 18 month, I bought a group of Neon Blue rainbowfish. I was reluctant to buy them before, knowing that all commercially sold ones were the descendants of only half a dozen of them brought from Papua New Guinea by Heiko Bleher – and are now very short lived and overloaded with problems. The group I bought was from a local breeder, so I could not resist (thinking they would be O.K). After two happy months, one after one of them was developing an internal ulcer or such manifesting itself in first small but ever increasing pinkish coloured lump – different places for each of them. I immediately bought and switched on a UV filter. I admit, I was hoping that the Neons will survive... None of them did. This was a Mycobacteriosis or something similar. I already had some relatively rare rainbowfish of other species in the same tank – and it was a UV filter which did not allow them to get ill. I don’t run it any more, nor I will ever buy any Neon Rainbowfish unless by chance they happen to be either wild caught or from one of those infamous breeders in Belgium and Holland who actually travel to Papua New Guinea to collect “fresh blood”.
So, I would not write off your UV filter completely, although running it all the time is not necessary.
EDIT: I have just thought - I really don't remember when it was last time I used any medication. I prefer good aquarium maintenance and a UV if really needed rather than using chemicals whatever good the intentions are. I have not had any outbreaks of any sort of disease - probably because I buy from trusted suppliers (those Neon Rainbowfish were one off "weakness") - and i don't need to quarantine any of the fish.

Offline Stuart

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2012, 11:29:57 AM »
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Thanks for your replies and sound advice regarding the uv filter. It all makes sense to me.

As for the water change problem, apologies if it was hard to understand. I would have drawn a diagram myself and attached it to help explain, but I was at work and couldn't.

I don't think adding the T joint after the filter would work. I would have to add a valve before the T joint, otherwise the water coming from the filter would just take the path of less resistance and fill my water container up instead of emptying it. And if I stop the water coming from the filter, I would also stop any pump action that pumps the water back up into the tank. It did take alot of thinking on my part to come to that conclusion but I think I'm right. Now I'm going for a lay down to get rid of this headache! lol  ;D

Thanks again.

Stuart.

Offline ColR1948

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2012, 11:01:08 PM »
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When I had my 360 liter tank, doing water changes was a pain using buckets, so I bought a pond pump and uses a wheelie bin, pump from the tank to the bin, tip the water outside then fill the bin with new water and put the pump in the bin to pump in to the tank, it worked a treat.

Offline Stuart

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2013, 10:22:04 AM »
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I did toy with the idea of another pump, but expences before Christmas halted that idea. I have now added the extra pipe and T joint and it seems to work fine. I have now used this method twice and regular water tests shows no spikes in ammonia or nitrites.

Interestingly and helpfully the water flow going back into the tank from my water container seems to be slower than when the filter is running normally. It takes 10 minutes to get near the bottom of my 36ltr container. I then lift the container and pour in the last inch at the bottom. That stops the filter from sucking in air.

I am using pure ro water though with added minerals (instead of a 90%/10% mix of ro and tap water) which probably helps.

Stuart.

Offline ColR1948

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2013, 11:57:51 AM »
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On the subject of water changes, something that always puzzles me.

I keep reading when doing a water change chlorinate for the full tank.

So for example if it is a 10 gallon and I take out 4 gallon and I dechlorinate the replacement 4 gallon why do I have dechlorinate the other 6 gallon that is already dechlorinated, has it suddenly got chlorine in from somewhere?

TigzFish

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2013, 12:12:34 PM »
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I keep reading when doing a water change chlorinate for the full tank.

So for example if it is a 10 gallon and I take out 4 gallon and I dechlorinate the replacement 4 gallon why do I have dechlorinate the other 6 gallon that is already dechlorinated, has it suddenly got chlorine in from somewhere?

I've never done this, I always treat the water by the volume in the bucket not the whole tank.

Offline ColinB

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2013, 12:23:56 PM »
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Me too.

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Panda Cory (7) - Honey Gourami (3) - Ember Tetra (9) - Lemon Tetra (4) - Cherry Barb (1) - Otocinclus (2) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Sue

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2013, 12:51:54 PM »
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The amount of dechlorinator depends on the way you refill the tank.

  • If you use a bucketand add dechlorinator to each bucket, add amount for just the volume of the bucket.
  • If you use a bucket to do several bucketsful, and you only add dechlorinator to the first, add enough for the whole tank volume
  • If you use a hose pipe straight from the tap, add the amount of dechlorinator to treat the volume of the whole tank. 


When dechlorinator is added to each bucket, the water is dechlorinated by the time it is added to the tank so you only need enough for just the new water.

When you add undechlorinated water to the tank, either from buckets or a hose, it is different. The water left in the tank contains things called dissolved organic compounds (docs). These docs react with dechlorinator. You need to add extra dechlorinator to make sure there is enough to remove all the chlorine in the new water. Treating the volume of the whole tank makes sure there is enough.

Offline ColR1948

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2013, 01:12:48 PM »
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Well I add amount to each bucket, I think this is one of the reasons why it becomes expensive.

Offline Sue

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2013, 01:49:02 PM »
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I use a bucket too. I  use a bucket that hold 8 litres right to the brim so realistically it holds 7.5 litres. My dechlorinator dosage is 1 drop per 3.8 litres, so I use 2 drops in every bucket of water. It is very easy to use a precise dose with this dechlorinator. One bottle last me months with three, admittedly small, tanks (25, 50 and 125 litres)
It would work out a lot more expensive if I had to use the amount for the whole tank every time.

Offline Andy M

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #12 on: June 23, 2013, 02:45:11 PM »
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Well will be due my first water change (since getting fish) on Wednesday. Given that my tank holds 81 ltrs. I assume a 15% water change means around 12-13 ltrs would be enough?   As far as conditioner is concerned, my tetra safestart says to add 5 ml per 10 ltrs of water, thats what i added when i did my big water change before i added my fish

Offline Sue

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #13 on: June 23, 2013, 03:02:31 PM »
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Have you bought any more fish since the harlies and cherry barbs? 15% will be enough for now, but I'd increase to 25%-ish once you have a tankful of fish.


As for the dechlorinator (conditioner) - Safe Start isn't a dechlorinator, it's bottled bacteria. Do you have a bottle of something that removes chlorine? That's all you need to use when doing a water change. The one made by Tetra is Aquasafe if you have that. Otherwise any dechloirinator, so long as it says it removes chlorine and preferably also removes heavy metals.

If you use a bucket to refil the tank, add the amount for just the volume of the bucket to each bucketful. Or add the amount for the volume of the whole tank straight to the tank, then add undechlorinated water from a bucket. The reason is that there are organic compunds in the tank that will react with some of the dechlorinator so you have to add a lot more if you add it staright to the tank rather than to each bucketful, where it will remove the chlorine before it gets to the tank.



Don't forget to turn off your filter and heater before you start, and to turn them back on afterwards. It damages the impeller in the filter if they run out of water and if a heater is turned on when the water level drops they have been known to crack.

Offline Andy M

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #14 on: June 23, 2013, 03:17:03 PM »
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i must have got it wrong, is it aquasafe?  its definitely to get rid of chlorine

Offline Andy M

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #15 on: June 23, 2013, 03:25:40 PM »
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Have you bought any more fish since the harlies and cherry barbs? 15% will be enough for now, but I'd increase to 25%-ish once you have a tankful of fish.


As for the dechlorinator (conditioner) - Safe Start isn't a dechlorinator, it's bottled bacteria. Do you have a bottle of something that removes chlorine? That's all you need to use when doing a water change. The one made by Tetra is Aquasafe if you have that. Otherwise any dechloirinator, so long as it says it removes chlorine and preferably also removes heavy metals.

If you use a bucket to refil the tank, add the amount for just the volume of the bucket to each bucketful. Or add the amount for the volume of the whole tank straight to the tank, then add undechlorinated water from a bucket. The reason is that there are organic compunds in the tank that will react with some of the dechlorinator so you have to add a lot more if you add it staright to the tank rather than to each bucketful, where it will remove the chlorine before it gets to the tank.



Don't forget to turn off your filter and heater before you start, and to turn them back on afterwards. It damages the impeller in the filter if they run out of water and if a heater is turned on when the water level drops they have been known to crack.

Not yet Sue, just the 11 i started off with, i was going to wait a fortnight to be safe although i could go Tuesday if its ok to add more then, would probably be 3 endlers. Is that enough or would more be more suitable?

Offline Sue

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #16 on: June 23, 2013, 03:28:31 PM »
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Yes, aquasafe (or whatever brand it is you have) is the one you need.

The bottle of Safe Start will tell you that you need to add it every time you do a water change or get new fish. But as long as you use something that removes chlorine when you do a water change you don't need the Safe Start. Chlorine in the new water would kill your filter bacteria but as long as you remove it nothing will happen to your filter bacteria so you don't need Safe Start. If you have some Safe Start left, you may as well add it when you get new fish, but once the bottle is empty don't bother buying a new one.


It should be OK to get more fish on Tuesday. I can't remember how many fish you got last week - was it 6 each, making 12 altogether? If that's right you could get up to 4 endlers. Or if they are a lot smaller than the harlies & barbs, even up to 5.

Offline Andy M

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #17 on: June 23, 2013, 03:33:28 PM »
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I got 6 harlies and 5 cherry barbs so 11 in total. I was just thinking 3 endlers so i have more scope for other varieties later on, wish i'd gone for the 125 litre option now  ::)

Offline Sue

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #18 on: June 23, 2013, 03:41:02 PM »
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I know what you mean. I was about to buy the 180 version of my tank when my husband decided it was too big so I had to get the 125 litre. When I think what I could have done with a 180 litre.........

Offline Andy M

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Re: Water Changes
« Reply #19 on: June 23, 2013, 03:43:40 PM »
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I know what you mean. I was about to buy the 180 version of my tank when my husband decided it was too big so I had to get the 125 litre. When I think what I could have done with a 180 litre.........

Well always scope to upgrade further down the line  ;D

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