Phosphate & Nitrate Levels And Algae

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Offline Skittler

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Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« on: August 19, 2015, 03:06:48 PM »
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Hello All,

My 125L community tank is now 9 months old. Initially, during my very protracted fishless cycling, I ended up with a lot of green and brown algae, and nitrate readings "off the scale". After cycling, I quickly added otos and panda cories. Both thrived, and the algae disappeared  ;D . About 3 months ago, I noticed that it was reappearing, so I added 6 Amano shrimps, but the algae has continued to thrive. At that time my nitrate levels were about 40 ppm. So, with only 5 ppm in my tap water, I decided that I must be overfeeding, and I reduced the feed by about 50%. Nitrate is now 20 ppm, but the algae situation has not improved.  :(. Also, the "pan scourer" glass cleaner which I got from MA is ineffective. It just rides over the surface of the green spots on the glass.

Today, a very battered API phosphate test kit arrived from Amazon, and I tested both tap and tank. To my amazement there is more phosphate in the tap (2 - 5ppm) than there is in the tank (1 ppm)! I know that at this time of the year, after farmers etc. have fertilised their fields both phosphate and nitrate can and do end up in our tap water. Also, water authorities add phosphate to "line" the inside of any lead pipes still out there, to reduce lead poisoning.

Otherwise, my heavily planted tank is thriving, and the otos etc. are just as busy as ever. I have read much about algae on here and elsewhere, and as usual, some of it is totally contradictory. Any thoughts as to where I go from here?  MY current feelings are to sit tight for another 2 months, and see if the algae eventually reduces. I welcome any thoughts and suggestions.

                                                  Skittler

Offline Sue

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2015, 03:17:27 PM »
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I think phosphate can also get in as part of fish food. Do you add any plant fertiliser as that can also contain it.
There are phosphate removing media you can add to the filter.

And for removing that green spotty algae off glass, I find a plant labels work well. I also use a cut out from the lid of an old tank. Both have nice straight edges which lift the algae well.

Offline Extreme_One

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2015, 04:09:52 PM »
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My research indicates Algae is caused by an imbalance between the three things needed for plant growth:
  • Nutrients (includes Phosphate, Nitrate etc)
  • light
  • Carbon (this can be CO2 injected or dissolved liquid carbon)

It's hard to say what the cause is, in each individual case, as it could be too much or too little of either Nutrients, light or Carbon.

Do you add CO2 or liquid Carbon?

How long are your lights on for?

Do you add plant fertilisers - what dosage?


The fact your aquarium has lower phosphates that your tap water indicates that your plants (and algae too perhaps) is consuming some of the phosphate from the water column.

I had a bloom of Brown Diatoms and added some Phospate Remover (the product I used was called Rowaphos) and that seems to have eliminated the problem for me, however I also increased the fertiliser dosage at around about the same time too.

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Tiger Barb (1) - Cardinal Tetra (17) - Otocinclus (1) - Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (2) - Ornamental Snails (50) - Assassin Snail (2) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Skittler

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2015, 09:09:46 AM »
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Hello Both,

I very rarely add fertiliser, perhaps 3 times in 9 months - and then only a half dose. I do this only when I see plants not thriving - and it does work.

I was advised on another forum to use liquid carbon, and it knocked 7 bells out of my Vallisneria - which I have since read is to be expected. That's why I joined Thinkfish ....... My filter really moves the surface a lot, so I doubt that there is a shortage of CO2.

My lights are on for 7 hours a day ( 2xT5 tubes, Juwel Rio 125), reduced from 8 when the algae started to return.

I do like the idea of the plastic plant label. I will try that.

In terms of macro nutrient balance, clearly I have Nitrogen and Phosphorous, but I don't know about Potassium. As far as micro nutrients are concerned, when I see a plant looking sad (they are all "easy" plants), that's when I add the small dose of fertiliser. My plants are thriving, and have to be pruned regularly.

                                                 Skittler

Offline Sue

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2015, 09:32:04 AM »
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Liquid carbon is one of those things that a lot of people refuse to have anywhere near their tanks. Most of them contain a form of glutaraldehyde which is toxic - that's why vallisneria doesn't like it. Neither do some inverts and fish.

Don't forget that all tanks have some algae, it's when it gets out of control that something needs to be done. I  scrape the front of my 180 litre, which has otos and nerites, every month. The betta's tank needs doing too, that has one small nerite. But the 50 litre litre doesn't need it - shrimps and a nerite. This could be due to the different amount of light on the tanks, the numbers of fish (and therefore different amounts of fish food) in each tank, and the different levels of planting.
I'm not well up in plants but if yours are thriving you are doing something right. If they are easy plants, are they also low light plants? You could try dropping to 6 hours and see if that makes a difference.

Offline Extreme_One

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2015, 09:59:53 AM »
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It's all about finding what works for you and it's only trial and error that will tell you that.

I'm currently dosing fertilisers daily and have to trim my plants weekly (if I'm not feeling lazy) or fortnightly (if I missed last week's trim and want to actually see the fish!)

Daily, I use:

1ml EasyLife Ferro (iron)
1ml EasyLife Kalium Potassium
2ml EasyLife Carbo
4ml EasyLife ProFito (mix of Micro and Macro Nutrients)

My lights are on for 12hours but these are only low wattage at around 0.4W per litre.

I do use RO water mixed with tap water so my aquarium water has fewer of the natural minerals that will be inherent in tap water.

I also introduced a bag of RowaPhos into my filter about five weeks ago after experiencing brown diatoms on a few of my plants. These have now cleared up.

I don't believe Glutaraldehyde is toxic at the recommended dosage.

Quote
"Though not marketed as such due to federal regulations, the biocidal effect of glutaraldehyde kills most algae at concentrations of 0.5–5.0 PPM. These levels are not harmful to most aquatic fauna and flora."

I think most people that suffer problems may be double or triple dosing, which is a regimen I've seen recommended on numerous planted aquarium forums.

That said, I do dose daily rather than weekly so perhaps my plants or fish would feel differently if I put 14ml into my aquarium in one dose.

I hope you can find what's causing your algae problem.

Maybe as a starting point, trying a product to reduce the phosphates would be worth a try ... ?

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Tiger Barb (1) - Cardinal Tetra (17) - Otocinclus (1) - Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (2) - Ornamental Snails (50) - Assassin Snail (2) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Sue

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2015, 10:11:06 AM »
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I don't believe Glutaraldehyde is toxic at the recommended dosage.

Most things are fine with the recommended dose but some plants are sensitive to it.

Quote from here

Quote
The ones I'm aware of are Egeria Densa, Riccia, Vallis and Fissidens. Some people also report it affecting shrimp and otos

Offline Extreme_One

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2015, 11:06:17 AM »
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Most things are fine with the recommended dose but some plants are sensitive to it.

Quote from here

Quote
The ones I'm aware of are Egeria Densa, Riccia, Vallis and Fissidens. Some people also report it affecting shrimp and otos

 :-[ That explains why some of my Vallis melted away!

I just put it down to being a new tank, some of the plants not rooting or being low quality from the supplier.

The thing is, the surviving Vallis are now thriving to the point that they've grown to almost double the depth of my aquarium and I'm wondering what to do with them, whether (and how) to trim them or just leave them.

Perhaps the survivors have built up a tolerance to the Glutaraldehyde.  ;D

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Tiger Barb (1) - Cardinal Tetra (17) - Otocinclus (1) - Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (2) - Ornamental Snails (50) - Assassin Snail (2) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline SteveS

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2015, 07:51:49 PM »
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I was advised on another forum to use liquid carbon, and it knocked 7 bells out of my Vallisneria - which I have since read is to be expected. That's why I joined Thinkfish ....... My filter really moves the surface a lot, so I doubt that there is a shortage of CO2.
Vallis are noted for their intolerance of liquid carbon.

Surface agitation decreases CO2 levels. I don't know why it has the opposite effect to oxygen, it's some chemistry thing and mu science background skipped chemistry I'm afraid.

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Angelfish (1) - Panda Cory (10) - Harlequin Rasbora (10) - Otocinclus (10) - Japonica Shrimp (10) - Honey Gourami (10) - Galaxy Rasbora (10) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Sue

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Re: Phosphate & Nitrate levels and algae
« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2015, 08:46:29 PM »
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It's all to do with relative concentrations.

Oxygen goes in because there is less oxygen in water than in the air, and the fish use it up making it even lower.
Carbon dioxide goes out because the fish make it so it leaves the water.
Because gas exchange takes place at the water surface, agitation exposes more water at the surface so gasses move in both directions better.

Of course plants confuse things further because they both use and make carbon dioxide and oxygen. When we add CO2 gas or liquid carbon, there is a lot more in the water so it tends to leave the water.

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