There are about half a dozen units for hardness, but fish profiles use just two. Your units are not used in fish profiles, but they can be converted. When you look up fish that take your fancy, their preferred hardness range will be given as either German degrees (also called just degrees or dH) or ppm (which is also called mg/l CaCO3)
Your water hardness converts to 4.9 dH and 87.5 ppm.
These are the two figures you need when looking up fish. Some sites use one, some use the other. The best site for looking up fish is Seriously Fish.
As for cycling:
In fishkeeping we use two hardness terms, GH and KH.
GH is general hardness and is the numbers on your water company's website that I converted above.
KH is the amount of carbonate and bicarbonate in the water. The K comes from the German for carbonate. Occasionally, a water company lists KH as well as GH but they call it alkalinity.
The bacteria we want to grow need inorganic carbon, as in carbonate, and trace minerals to grow properly. As a rule of thumb, KH is high with GH or low with GH. As your GH is low, it is very likely your KH will also be low. Since you are waiting for your testers to arrive, you'll be able to confirm just how low KH is. If it is below 4 degrees, you will need to artificially boost carbonate during cycling. You should be able to get away with the trace minerals with GH 5 degrees, but if you intend growing live plants, you may as well get some liquid fertiliser now and add some of that. The best one is Seachem Flourish, the one with nothing else in the name. It contains most of the trace element plants need. You won't need to use as much as the dosage rate says because you just want to add a bit more trace elements not feed a tank full of hungry plants.
The other problem with low KH is that there is a danger of a pH crash. We add ammonia to cycle the tank and it is converted to nitrite and then nitrate, both of which are acidic - they lower the pH. Carbonate reacts with acids and stops the pH falling. It buffers the pH. But when there is not much of it, it gets used up leaving nothing to buffer the pH, so the pH falls, and it falls quickly. The bacteria we want to grow don't like low pH. They stop multiplying around pH 6.5 and become dormant at below 6.
The way to stop a pH crash with low KH is by artificially boosting KH.
Once the test kit arrives, can you post the KH reading, please. If it is at or below the safe limit, I can tell you what you need to do.
I have done two fishless cycles, one with the old method and one with the newer method written up on here. My GH is 5 dH and my KH is 3. During the first fishless cycle, my pH dropped off the bottom of the scale so when I did the second I boosted KH when I set the tank up and the pH remained stable.