Ding! Ding! Cycling Round Two

Well ive filled my new 260L with water today, and figured out the external filter (just hope them hoses are on tight)  *blink* it filled up great no soil or sand storms, quite a clear fill, just letting it all settle and warm up. Have some old and new bogwood (or such) in it, so i think i may have some colouration, but i don't mind some, and i'm loving the sound of the spray bar. I bought some new bio media to put in the filter and it came with some gel balls with bacteria in them, so along with some old sponge media i'm hoping this fishless cycle wont be as traumatic as the first lol at least i know what to expect this time. So tomorrow all being well i will start my first Ammonia dose

AM

What do you think of that biomedia stuff? It looks like it was made be the same machines that make Cheesey Wotsits!

I'm thinking of getting some for my Fluval 306 filters for my 240L Chrimbo present.

I filled tank yesterday and was about to start my testing, but realised i didn't add any dechlorinator, so ive added it now, not sure how long to wait to test now? Oh and it came with 200w heater, not sure that will do the job of getting temp high enough for cycling 220-40 L of water?, ive got it on 32 but water is at 23c after 12 hours

The heater you need also depends on your rom temperature. There's a big difference between a heated room and an unheated one. You could also try covering the tank with a blanket or something, a great deal of heat is lost through the glass and it will warm up quicker if it is covered. I assume you have checked the heater is actually still on when the temperature is at 23 but you have set it to 32, i.e. the light is always on. If not, the thermostat could be faulty.

Set both for 30.

I'm going to put some insulation at the back of my 240L Roma when I get it. I've got quite a bit of radiator backing which will be just perfect. Any insulation will help.

It's likely that the thermostat is faulty on the first heater, if it is set to 30 it shouldn't turn off below 30!

Insulation is very useful. All of my tanks have black painted rear wall and so whatever I put on there doesn't show through. On the tanks in unheated rooms, I've put a double layer of bubble wrap on the backs. Can't be seen but helps retain heat and hence save electricity.

Thinking of buying this, will it do the job better,?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Submersible-All-Pond-Solutions-AH-300/dp/B002NLGCKG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417948439&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+300w+heater

I have the Eheim heaters, they are good, but not the easiest to calibrate, i'm running the two for now, till i get required heat, nearly there lol

Since your ammonia is zero (or as near as makes no difference) and the nitrite is exactly 1.0 - ie not under or over 1.0 - add one third of the full dose of ammonia. You are on the boundary between steps 9 and 10 in my method.
If you are adding 4ml for the full dose, add 1¹/₃ ml today. Test again on day 13. Two possibilities for the day 13 tests:

1) In those tests, if the ammonia is zero and nitrite is below 1.0, add the full dose and test after 24 hours. If you then have both at zero, the cycle has finished. But if those tests show either or both above zero, ask what to do next or this post will get very confusing.

2) in the day 13 tests, if the ammonia is zero but nitrite is not zero, add another third-of-the-full dose of ammonia and test again next day.