Author Topic: Tick tick tick tick (Read 9493 times) 31 replies

Alex_N · « **on:** August 10, 2015, 12:28:51 PM »

My lamp has started giving off a high tempo ticking when it has been turned off, previously been on for a few hours.
Is this bulb cooling down or about to bust? It isn't giving off no more heat than normal so I don't think it's over heating.

Sue · « **Reply #1 on:** August 10, 2015, 01:22:29 PM »

It could well be cooling down noises. Our last gas fire used to make loud clangs shortly after it was turned off

Alex_N · « **Reply #2 on:** August 10, 2015, 01:42:53 PM »

It's started doing whilst it's on now as well

I'll leave it off for the rest of the day and try it again this evening.

Sue · « **Reply #3 on:** August 10, 2015, 01:46:08 PM »

What brand of tank is it, and is it brand new or second hand?

Alex_N · « **Reply #4 on:** August 10, 2015, 02:20:45 PM »

It's a Juwel something something lol
It is 2nd hand but I don't know how long it has or hasn't been used for prior to my ownership.

Sue · « **Reply #5 on:** August 10, 2015, 02:26:58 PM »

Older Juwel tanks have had problems with their lighting.

Next question - does the tank have a solid lid or a light bar with flaps attached to it?

(solid lid = Jewel Rekord; bar and flaps = Juwel Rio)

Alex_N · « **Reply #6 on:** August 10, 2015, 02:41:58 PM »

I believe it's a Rio, but an older model.
I think I've sussed it, with the power of Google naturally. I believe it's the plastics expanding and contracting with the heat, I don't think the light was used for a while in the previous ownership. The tank had been used as the media was still wet on arrival.

Sue · « **Reply #7 on:** August 10, 2015, 02:54:45 PM »

Have a look underneath the light bar for an orange sticker. The bars with orange stickers were made in China and prone to failing. Those without were made in Germany and of a much better quality.

I bought a brand new Rio 125 - with an orange sticker. It didn't work new from the box so I got it replaced straight away. The replacement had an orange sticker and that failed a month out of warranty so I had to buy a new one. The problem with these bars was with the electronic ballast. Water got inside and rusted everything. They could be repaired by cutting the bar open and replacing the ballast but I didn't trust myself to wire it up properly and to seal it adequately afterwards.

Alex_N · « **Reply #8 on:** August 10, 2015, 03:16:42 PM »

I can't see any form of sticker. And..... the bulb has just blown lol.

Sue · « **Reply #9 on:** August 10, 2015, 03:30:29 PM »

Rios usually have 2 bulbs. If one blows, the other won't work either, so change the blown one first before the other which might be fine just not working because the other has blown.

If you have only one bulb, that's a Rekord not a Rio!

And you can use any bulb of the same type and length, you don't have to use Juwel bulbs.

Alex_N · « **Reply #10 on:** August 10, 2015, 04:01:59 PM »

I stand corrected, it is a Reckard.
Will pick up a bulb soon, I don't think it's essential as I'm still only cycling.
Will let you know if it is the bulb or the ballast that was the cause.

Extreme_One · « **Reply #11 on:** August 10, 2015, 04:15:38 PM »

Quote from: Alex_N on August 10, 2015, 04:01:59 PM

... I don't think it's essential as I'm still only cycling.

You can definitely do without lighting whilst you're cycling, in fact I'd always recommend switching off the light to avoid potential algae build-up and prolong the life of the bulb(s).

Alex_N · « **Reply #12 on:** August 10, 2015, 04:25:39 PM »

Sweet, try telling my kids that lol
They're fascinated all ready and there's nothing in it lol

Alex_N · « **Reply #13 on:** August 21, 2015, 05:48:53 PM »

Ok, finally got round to changing the bulb, no luck, changed fuse and starter motor...nothing.
Any one got any ideas? I'm really hoping it isn't the ballast.

Sue · « **Reply #14 on:** August 21, 2015, 07:36:02 PM »

If the new bulb doesn't work, unfortunately it sounds like the ballast.

However, I do have a suggestion for you. LED lights. These are now available as replacements for fluorescent tubes in that they are rigid tubes and fit into the old sockets.
Most common are the type that have plastic clips with prongs on the end looking like the terminals on a fluorescent tube. These slot into the the sockets in the hood but they are just there to support the tube, the tubes have a separate electrical supply. The cable that is attached to the hood must not be used; it should either be cut off or just left hanging down the back of the tank.
Arcadia also make one that is powered by the fluorescent light fitting, but only if it is the kind with magnetic ballast as they must not be used with electronic ballast. Other makes might do this type as well, but Arcadia is the only one I've come across.

I will come clean and tell you that I have just got an LED tube for my 50 litre tank. The fluorescent tube was going black at the ends so I decided to replace it. I had a look for the Arcadia type that uses the hood's electrics but they don't make them small enough. The shop I went to (they stock Arcadia fluorescents which is why I went there) had a different make - the type with its own cable and uses end caps to hold the tube in place - so I gave it a try. I don't normally buy things of Superfish brand but this is doing the job nicely and didn't break the bank.

Something to think about. Maybe spend the weekend looking at what your local shops stock.

SteveS · « **Reply #15 on:** August 21, 2015, 08:00:04 PM »

Quote from: Alex_N on August 21, 2015, 05:48:53 PM

Ok, finally got round to changing the bulb, no luck, changed fuse and starter motor...nothing.
Any one got any ideas? I'm really hoping it isn't the ballast.

If you've changed the tube, the fuse and the starter, I'm afraid there's little left to go wrong apart from the ballast. You can pick up a ballast for around £20 (google the part number) if you're confident you can fit it yourself. Otherwise you're left with replacing the whole thing.

The type of LED light that replaces a tube mentioned by Sue can be picked up much more cheaply from a specialist supplier, rather than buy an Aquatics Supplier branded one. I've seen them for around £20.

Don't get the sort that Sue mentions that can run off a magnetic ballast, your ballast is probably broken!

Sue · « **Reply #16 on:** August 21, 2015, 08:46:19 PM »

Good thought, if the ballast won't work with a fluorescent it won't work with the second type of LED.

Alex_N · « **Reply #17 on:** August 22, 2015, 07:54:49 AM »

Brilliant, is there anything I specifically need to look for with getting the LED strips?

Sue · « **Reply #18 on:** August 22, 2015, 10:02:33 AM »

I don't know about colours for plants etc. I gave up on growing anything but easy plants years ago and get white tubes as I prefer the effect of that colour.

How does the current tube fit into the tank lid? Are the lamp sockets fixed inside the lid like my 50 litre tank or is the tube suspended from clips with the sockets not physically held by the lid (as with my 180 litre)? If it's the former, you'll need a tube that can fit into the sockets but with its own power supply since your ballast is dead. To show you what I mean, this is Arcadia's version. At the bottom of the page are the end caps that convert the tube into a fluorescent tube style lamp which plugs into the existing sockets. The downside to Arcadia LEDs is the price (which is why I got the Superfish version). I've also seen other makes which have built in (rather than slot on) plastic locator pins.

If the light terminals are not part of the lid, and the tube is held in place with clips in the middle of the tube, you can get any LED you like as long as it has its own power supply. I looked at a few sites of non-aquarium makes as suggested by Steve but a lot of those use the fluorescent tube's ballast as the power supply. I can see why when they are intended for use on the ceiling as you don't want a wire trailing down to a socket but that's not a problem with aquariums as the original lights have a trailing wire.

SteveS · « **Reply #19 on:** August 22, 2015, 07:21:11 PM »

For colour, there is white and there is white! Usually domestic white fluorescent tubes fall into two broad categories"Warm White" and "Cool White" The first is a sort of orangey tint that is designed to mimic the light you get from a standard tungsten light bulb; the second has a more blue tint and is intended to mimic "daylight". The latter is the best one to get.

The problem is that each manufacturer has their own ideas about what this light should consist of and what to call it! Look for the colour temperature of the light. A warm white light will have a colour temperature of around 3500K and a Cool White light will have a colour temperature of around 6500K.

Tick Tick Tick Tick

Tick Tick Tick Tick

Author Topic: Tick tick tick tick (Read 9493 times) 31 replies

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