Author Topic: Tank photo containing live plants (Read 37603 times) 61 replies

Matt · « **Reply #20 on:** June 02, 2020, 06:52:02 PM »

I would still add a complete fertiliser and make sure there is enough of everything. It is actually advisable to slightly over dose fertiliser to ensure there are no shortages - healthy plant growth is the best antidote to algae.

Edited to add - plus I’d be too nervous about getting the proportions wrong with individual element dosing!!!

fcmf · « **Reply #21 on:** June 02, 2020, 07:10:04 PM »

Thanks, M.

So, just to confirm, I won't be overdosing or harming my nerite snails or fish if I continued to dose Seachem Flourish, Seachem Flourish root tabs AND something like Seachem Enhancer NPK (or TNC Complete, depending on which has least phosphorus, I'd imagine)?

Am throwing it all "out there" - here are photos of the sorry state of my ?Amazon Sword and of my lower-level leaves of the hygrophila guanensis. Apologies in advance if I give you nightmares after seeing these! [White-Spined Cardinal has photobombed the final photo.]

Matt · « **Reply #22 on:** June 02, 2020, 07:17:12 PM »

There is good new growth from the entries there, they need the right nutilrition to maintain the older leaves and fight off the algae - there is Hope don’t worry!! Before I advice on dosing and as we’re both online right now can I ask first when you say seachem flourish - which product? The micro nutrients? Or excel?

fcmf · « **Reply #23 on:** June 02, 2020, 07:27:10 PM »

It's the micro-nutrients one I have.

Matt · « **Reply #24 on:** June 02, 2020, 07:34:14 PM »

Thanks - in that case your dosing suggestion is correct. Micro and macro products dosed together or the one complete product (suggest looking at the dose rate for the products and working out the best value for money - many are weaker solutions). You can also continue to use the root tabs - the amazon sword benefit from them specifically.

fcmf · « **Reply #25 on:** June 02, 2020, 07:41:06 PM »

That's great; thanks, Matt.

Found a photo of the Limnophila sessiliflora shortly before I more-or-less killed it. It was very top heavy, and a bit of tinkering around to remove the algae or whatever-it-is that was clogging up / transpired to be holding together the stems near the base ultimately caused the stems to break. However, it's proof that I did actually keep a plant alive and even have it grow for a while!

fcmf · « **Reply #26 on:** June 03, 2020, 01:43:40 PM »

I'm having trouble getting my head around how dosing with NPK is not going to cause even higher phosphate levels and thus potentially more algae (.v. if I dosed only with NK or NK plus a small amount of P). Hoping someone can explain; thanks.

Matt · « **Reply #27 on:** June 03, 2020, 08:40:31 PM »

@fcmf It will cause it to increase of course and your approach is not wrong - sorry if this is what came across it was not my intention. My personal preference is simply to find the simplest route to success that’s all. In many cases the balance of having all nutrients available is what is more important than a “minor” excess. However having done a little research just now 5mg/l does appear to be borderline on quite a significant concentration. You are likely to get success with both approaches I suspect in reality. Your choice is whether to start simple or complex in your approach - perhaps it’s worth looking as to whether any of the algae types you are experiencing are related to high phosphate. Also whether the phosphate is steady all year round in your tap water supply - my water company provides max,min,avg for the variables. This would help you make an informed choice on the route you wish to take.

fcmf · « **Reply #28 on:** June 04, 2020, 05:57:02 PM »

No probs, and thanks, Matt - this makes more sense to me now.

Does anyone have any idea what these algae types are, based on my photos?

I don't do the phosphate tests regularly but they've always been 4.0 or 5.0 ppm from the tap. My water company provides comprehensive detail on what seems like everything possible except any phosphate levels!

Edited to add: Photo of tapwater phosphate levels.

Marcus_F · « **Reply #29 on:** June 04, 2020, 07:36:51 PM »

@fcmf @Matt

Glad to see I’m not the only one struggling to come to terms with balance in order to support plant life and no algae. Why can’t algae be pretty a freaking awesome at growing that

I think I’m slowly eliminating potential issues and could be as has been mentioned here my lack of macronutrients. I add JBL ferropol for the micro stuff, have 10-20ppm of Nitriate 0 ammonia and Nitrite so not sure if I need Macro and the impact it has on readings. Phosphate is 0.25ppm if that helps.

Matt · « **Reply #30 on:** June 04, 2020, 07:50:19 PM »

Algae types and their causes treatments etc etc...

https://greenaqua.hu/en/alga-tajekoztato?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwcX_5Ono6QIVyrHtCh2D7wNoEAAYASAAEgKd1_D_BwE

I honestly think your main issue there is the decaying plant matter - eliminate this with macro dosing and your algae will magically go away!!

Your phos level will fine Marcus.

Marcus_F · « **Reply #31 on:** June 04, 2020, 08:19:38 PM »

Thanks Matt saw your reply. I’m getting there slowly.

Got a co2 test kit arriving and the power head then potentially I need some fast growing plants, Try build up the tank and add some potassium

fcmf · « **Reply #32 on:** June 04, 2020, 08:20:21 PM »

Thanks, Matt.

Looks like it might be brown algae (and possibly hair algae). @Marcus_F - yours probably is too. Hopefully indeed macro-dosing will help.

fcmf · « **Reply #33 on:** June 06, 2020, 06:00:26 PM »

In an effort to diagnose my algae, I've taken some photos:
Photo 1: how it starts out (diatoms?)
Photos 2-4: fluff-type algae
Currently don't have the usual brown/slime-type algae that often overtakes the plants but that'll no doubt follow shortly.

Marcus_F · « **Reply #34 on:** June 06, 2020, 09:18:01 PM »

No expert by all means but from all the research I’ve done and photo’s I’ve studied that I looks like hair algae to me.

My algae is longer, maybe it needs a snip

Will try take some photos tomorrow.

I’ve been working on water chemistry today.

My tank PH is 8.2 which I’ve checked is not great for co2 levels. Also trying to reduce my hard tap water. So I have mixed In a bucket 75% RO and 25% tap. The PH of that bucket is 7.2, KH is 5 and GH 7.

Been reading up if using 75% RO is a good idea. Can’t find anywhere saying it’s a bad idea and it’s all about getting my PH down and so KH needs to drop.

Marcus_F · « **Reply #35 on:** June 07, 2020, 06:12:28 PM »

Not worked out how to embedded an image to a post but here are Flickr links

https://flic.kr/p/2j9GnuV

https://flic.kr/p/2j9F51N

https://flic.kr/p/2j9F51x

fcmf · « **Reply #36 on:** June 07, 2020, 06:31:24 PM »

Yes, the algae on your plants is definitely different from that on mine - hairier and longer whereas mine is fluffier. The dark leaves of the ?vallis look similar, though - do you find it melts once it goes like that?

Our issues are quite different too - you're using CO2 and RO water, while I'm not, so maybe any potential solutions for each of us will be different.

Marcus_F · « **Reply #37 on:** June 07, 2020, 06:45:28 PM »

Can’t say I notice melting. Not really heard that terminology before I started researching. I’m not using co2

I’m just researching into co2.

Think mine is Black beard but it’s green

fcmf · « **Reply #38 on:** June 07, 2020, 07:21:19 PM »

The first link with the dark leaf in the middle looks as though it's BBA. I'm sure one of the links I looked at described 'green beard algae' - every link seems to generate new names of algae.

Oops - I must have completely mis-read/mis-remembered that re CO2.

fcmf · « **Reply #39 on:** June 23, 2020, 06:22:05 PM »

Up-to-date photo of plants:

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Tank Photo Containing Live Plants

Tank Photo Containing Live Plants

Author Topic: Tank photo containing live plants (Read 37603 times) 61 replies

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