New Plants

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Offline Sanjo

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New plants
« on: February 26, 2015, 10:17:55 AM »
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As I'm going to be stuck with just a planted tank for a while, I have treated myself to a few new plants
Hairgrass (Eleocharis parvula)
Twistd vallis (Vallisneria Tortifolia)
Amazon Sword

I already have Java fern and some java moss thanks to Naughtymoose, as well as an anubia nan and a little cryptocoryne

I bought the new plants from Ebay and I want to avoid any snail problems.
I shall be looking at them VERY carefully, making sure I use my reading glasses!

However, would it be a good idea to use the odimor treatment supplied to me by Maidenhead to treat my dying fish?

The bottle says invertebrates will not tolerate the medicine which contains Copper  sulphate pentahydrate and malachite green oxalate.

I am only intending a one off treatment and to leave the plants in the water for 15-30 mins and then rinsing off well.  In separate container rather than my tank.

My experience with the first lot of fish has left me apprehensive to say the least.  Murphy's law of what can go wrong WILL go wrong for me!!

Any views please.

Offline Richard W

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Re: New plants
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2015, 10:32:37 AM »
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Plants have almost always already been treated to kill any invertebrates. In any case, they are normally grown where there are no fish and so will not have any disease organisms etc. I've put hundreds of plants from EBay into my tanks and never had any problems. You are more likely to have trouble with those from the LFS where they often put them in the same tanks as fish, so that they might carry disease.
Your tank is very small for Amazon Sword which I've found only grows well in bigger tanks.
Hairgrass is regarded as a tricky plant to grow, I've never tied it for that reason.

Offline Sanjo

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Re: New plants
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2015, 10:37:37 AM »
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Oh lordy.
See what can go wrong will!!

I expect the swords will die anyway Richard  ::)

OK, no medicines then, hope for the best with the hairgrass and fish out the swords when they die!!

And there was me thinking I had researched it all very carefully before I wasted any more money  :-[

Online Sue

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Re: New plants
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2015, 12:26:10 PM »
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Snails are not the problem a lot of people make them out to be. They tend to get out of control if the fish are overfed. I have nerite snails which I bought as I like them; small red flat spirals (a ramshorn species) which I didn't buy and tadpole snails after one arrived with a plant a month or so ago.

If there is any possibilty that you'll have shimps in the tank, I wouldn't add anything to kill snails. I have to quarantine all the plants I buy in a tank with carbon to remove anything likely to kill shrimps and snails!

Offline Helen

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Re: New plants
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2015, 12:30:22 PM »
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I had to completely replace my first tank after I had planted it. And consequently I had no snails until I introduced them with subsequent plant purchases. So I think you should be OK just planting your new purchases.

To look after your plants I would recommend removing any air stones and keeping the surface agitation to a minimum. CO2 'dissolves' out of the water, and oxygen in, at the surface of the water. Therefore as you don't have any livestock to generate CO2 for your plants, you want to minimise its loss. To the same end it would be a good idea to keep doing water changes, as this introduces low levels of CO2 into the water. Try to be as gentle as possible when pouring the new water in. Minimising surface area is your current objective!

I think it would also be a good idea to fertilise the tank / plants. Don't forget that you will also need a source of nitrogen for them. But if you are continuing to feed your bacteria, that should be OK.

And I think it would also help if you had your lights on a 'siesta'. Whether this helps or not is pretty controversial, but it is a method that I use and personally think is very successful. The theory is that gases dissolve from high to low concentrations. Plants produce oxygen in the light and CO2 in the dark. After about 4 hours of light, the plants have produced so much oxygen that the concentration around the leaves slows down further production. So if you turn the lights off, the plants then use up the oxygen and so when the lights come back on they can produce more oxygen than they otherwise would have.

A lot of tropical aquatic plants come from rivers and streams that are overshadowed by trees etc. So in the middle of the day, the aquatic plants are actually in shadow. So supporters of the 'siesta' regime point to this as being the natural environment for these plants.

The other thing that will affect this is the water flow. If there is good flow, the oxygen will be moved away from the plants and therefore won't become sufficiently concentrated to slow down further growth.

With a bit of TLC, your planted tank will look even better when you are ready to introduce fish again. But it can be difficult to completely reverse everything you've learned for fish, to promote plant growth.

My understanding of why Amazon swords fail is because they like a lot of nitrogen, and because they are quite big, larger tanks can accommodate bigger, messier and a lot more fish. Mine visibly fail and thrive depending on my stocking levels. And when I removed one, the root system was huge - significantly larger than the leaf system. It was very disruptive to my tank!

If you keep on top of removing dead / dying leaves, any snails that do get into your tank will die pretty quickly.

Offline Richard W

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Re: New plants
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2015, 01:33:07 PM »
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To look after your plants I would recommend removing any air stones and keeping the surface agitation to a minimum. CO2 'dissolves' out of the water, and oxygen in, at the surface of the water. Therefore as you don't have any livestock to generate CO2 for your plants, you want to minimise its loss. To the same end it would be a good idea to keep doing water changes, as this introduces low levels of CO2 into the water. Try to be as gentle as possible when pouring the new water in. Minimising surface area is your current objective!

I think it would also be a good idea to fertilise the tank / plants. Don't forget that you will also need a source of nitrogen for them. But if you are continuing to feed your bacteria, that should be OK.

I don't see the logic here. CO2 levels in the water and the air above will tend to equilibrium. If you are adding CO2 or have fish producing it, then it would be true that agitating the surface would cause CO2 loss, since the concentration in the air would be lower than in the water. However, in this case Sanjo has no fish and is not adding CO2. Her plants will be using up the CO2 in the water reducing the concentration so that it is lower than in the air. Therefore agitating the surface will increase the CO2 level in the water as it moves towards equilibrium with that in the air.

CO2 in this tank will almost certainly be the limiting factor, with no fish to produce it. Adding fertiliser will therefore be a waste of time and money. Plants can only take advantage of extra fertiliser if they are not limited by CO2.

To quote Diana Walstad :
"there is little to be gained from restricting the nutrient levels in the aquarium by underfeeding fish, changing water frequently, and cleaning gravel, but then adding it all back as plant fertilizers. (Sounds like a lot of work to me.)"
"Artificial fertilization with CO2, trace elements, and macronutrients is unnecessary if the tank contains a fertile substrate, the fish are fed well, and nutrients are not removed by over-zealous tank cleaning"



Offline Sanjo

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Re: New plants
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2015, 01:59:36 PM »
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Thank you all.

I don't have the lights on all day, they are switched on at dusk and kept on for around 6-7 hours. Obviously as the days become longer the use of the lights will reduce?

I have no major algae problem, just a little bit growing on a rough cast ornament. The water and glass is very clear.

I do have an airstone going but it is barely producing bubbles on the surface.  I'll re-direct it when I replant the tank next week.

As for the overpowered filter, I put that on a homemade spray bar as it helped with the ridiculous water reduction in the filter compartment which was making it run dry. 
I can direct that so that the flow is still in the water without having bubbles.  It's only bobbing the pretend fish at the moment anyway!

I do use a liquid fertiliser at the moment.

I have contacted the Ebay company and asked them to exchange the Sword for something a little less daunting so hopefully the will get the message before they despatch.

Oh what absorbing hobby !! You wait until I next get that grandson in my clutches  ;D

Offline SteveS

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Re: New plants
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2015, 06:16:58 PM »
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Quote
"Artificial fertilization with CO2, trace elements, and macronutrients is unnecessary if the tank contains a fertile substrate, the fish are fed well, and nutrients are not removed by over-zealous tank cleaning"
But there are no fish to produce CO2 or nitrates; There is gravel and no substrate (from a previous post) - not exactly fertile; Maybe she doesn't clean her tank!  :o

Even if the CO2 levels in the air and water equalise as you say, and I suspect that they don't (I'm sure that relative density will be involved somewhere), the CO2 cycle is also much more complex than you state; Plants "breathe" in CO2 during periods when the lights are on and produce O2; The reverse cycle happens when the lights are off. What this does to the CO2 levels in the tank is far too complex for me to get my head around.

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Offline Sanjo

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Re: New plants
« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2015, 07:53:35 PM »
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The very kind Ebay supplier has agreed to swap the sword for some java moss so that's OK.
I currently have gravel but will be re-doing the tank shortly and using Tetra substrate, under the re-applied gravel.

(Now this is where I find out I'm doing that wrong too  :-\)

I swear I shall get the hang of all this at some stage. All a learning curve at the moment.

I've been quietly looking at fish again as well as future shrimp, just for future reference you understand, and I did drop hints into a recent conversation with the other half but he is decidedly offish about it all and insists he really really really loves the planted tank!!

Offline Helen

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Re: New plants
« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2015, 09:15:16 PM »
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Richard, I totally agree with what you are saying. All my logic is based on the idea that tap water has higher levels of CO2 than air. Now you've challenged that idea, I'm not so sure.

I agree that CO2 will most certainly be the limiting factor. But again, working on the idea that tap water has some CO2, but in my area virtually no nitrates, I was thinking that nitrates would be the limiting factor.

I am also a fan of Diane Walstad, but having not discovered her method until after I'd bought my tank and set it up with gravel and substrate, I don't follow it for my set up.

Steve, you are correct, the aim of the Walstad method is to set up a complete micro system where you do yearly water changes, feed the fish and remove excessive plant growth. I personally think in its 'pure' form, it isn't really suitable for most tropical tanks, as it requires very heavy planting and quite a high stock level. The plants and fish are treated equally. Most people with tropical fish tanks put fish first and then think about plants, so already have moved away from the Walstad method. But it is a great demonstration of how interference can cause more harm than help if you get the right balance.

I think this is the reason I have got away with such poor maintenance over the last couple years. And I am unlikely to go back to the high maintenance,  CO2 injection set up I had previously.

And Diane Walstad's book is not an easy read. I have an engineering degree and gave up before I finished. OK, so chemistry is not my favourite science, but I didn't feel I was understanding enough of that particular chemistry book.

By the way I think the term you were referring to about the different solution rates of gases is called partial pressures.

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