Confusion About Lighting.

I take it that you are using the Neutro T and Neutro CO2 then?

I still keep coming back to the idea that you've got too much light in the tank. But I've not changed my lighting regime since I started my tank, and I managed to get rid of a similar looking algae. So I can't make up my mind whether this will help.

Perhaps it is related to the brown diatoms and it is something that will disappear when your tank settles down. If your tank has been cycled since November, it is still less than 6 months old and therefore not yet considered a 'mature' tank. But that doesn't actually help and you don't want to kill off all your plants while things sort themselves out.

What water changes do you do? I know I originally wanted a planted tank because I understood it to require fewer, smaller water changes. I think this is probably true when the tank has matured and is nicely balanced (it has less effect on the water quality if I'm late with a water change, or don't have time to do as big a change as normal), but I think this idea is perhaps a bit misleading when the tank is still maturing.

So as well as changing the lighting regime for a bit, to see if that has an effect, it is probably worth increasing the water change regime to see if that helps. Though, don't do them at the same time, as you'll never know which one works - if it helps. Try changing 25-30% water every week (or twice a week) for a couple months. And try to avoid vacuuming the gravel, especially around the plants. Not only does vacuuming disturb the plants' roots, but the mulm that filters through the gravel actually is quite a valuable fertiliser going to the plants roots. And when the plants start growing well, the algae should stop growing well.

By the sounds of it, the Camboba (in particular Red) needs a lot of care to do well, high light level, CO2 and fertile substrate. I have Limnophilia sessiflora in my tank, which looks similar but is less demanding. My T8 lights aren't really quite enough to get it really bushy, but I get around that by allowing it to grow along the water surface for a bit, before pruning and replanting the stems.

You should post some photos of the whole of your tank in the gallery section. We like looking at pics of everyone else's tanks! 

Hi Mervin,
I just came back from work, so only saw your posts now...
Thanks for the photographs – they helped a lot. From what I can see, you have a selection of different types of algae. But not to panic!  :)As I said, identification is 50% of success. All of these algae types have their causes but what is common between them is: 1) CO2 levels in your tank water and 2) flow and distribution and 3) possible “mini-cycles”.
Without bothering you with a detailed explanation of the things behind my advice (too much to write and it will make the whole post far too much to take in), I will tell you what I would do:
-   Lighting regime: 3 hours to start, 4 hours “siesta” (during the time when there is ambient light available (e.g. day time), 3-4 hours period of light (for consistency, the lights in your tank have to go off and back on after the “siesta” during the day time – say, lights on from 9 am to 12:00 noon, lights off from 12 noon till 4 pm, lights on from 4 pm till 8 pm)
-   Stop hoovering the substrate completely (that is, if you have a LARGE area of unplanted substrate, you can hoover only this area – NOT pushing the tube too much down (only a centimetre or so down , if you really cannot bear it without hovering). What you can do instead is to use the tube to hoover just about the surface (0.5 cm) collecting any loose particles.
-   Water changes: 30% but once a week. Ideally, you need to prepare the water beforehand: pour it into buckets (if you have enough of them - but even half of “prepared” water is good). Leave the buckets at least overnight or – even better - for 24 hours before using for a water change. Overdose with your dechlorinator (2-3 times but it really does not matter as long as you overdose)
-   Clean the glass just before the water change. Optional: the elements of decor you can easily remove, can be cleaned in aquarium water with a new cheap toothbrush (just pour some water into a bucket or any other container you use for the tank only, clean with the brush, “wiggle” to rinse and put back into the tank) – when you do the water changes, before you cleaned the glass and before you took the water out to replace. If the decor is not easy to remove and place back – please, don’t bother doing it.
-   Continue dosing the nutrients as you did before
-   Water flow: I need some more info on this – what is your filter? Do you use a spray bar or the water from the filter comes out of a “nozzle”? Please, let me know. In any case – push the spray bar or the nozzle BELOW water surface about 2 inches.
This is a start. I cannot guarantee that this will work 100% (every single tank is different and what works for one does not work for another) – however, I think this is the right way to go for your tank. The algae will not go overnight but it should decrease slowly but steadily. When this period is over, you will be able to increase lighting. (I cannot predict for how long it will take, though – all depends on how well your tank responds).
Apart from your water flow, ideally, it would be helpful to know your tap water parameters (sorry again if you mentioned it already and I missed the post!).

Hi Natalia,

Thanks very much for that. I will start that regime straight away.

I only have the API Master kit but according to my Water Co. my water is classed as Very Hard at 330mg. My PH is 8ppm

I am using an Eheim Pro 3 250 Filter. I can only get the spray bar just over an inch under water but if you think it is important I will try to add some more tube where the bar connects to the hook end and push it down further. It may be a while as I will have to try and get to the lfs for more tube as I have none left.

I will find it difficult but I will restrict myself to one water change per week and likewise will cease the hoovering.

I already "double" dose the dechlorinator but will add a bit more.

I have been checking the Nerite snails and rather like the idea but my wife is absolutely adamant that I am to have NO snails at all. I cannot get her to budge on that.

Oh, I should say that I am overdosing the Liquid C02....recommended dose is 3ml and I am dosing 4ml every 24hrs...I was told by the supplier that overdosing would help eradicate algae?  I am also dosing 8ml Fertilizer every 24hrs. This fertilizer does not contain phosphate or nitrates.

Hope I do not have to change the fert as I purchased a 2 litre bottle!! But would it help if I purchased a "complete" fert and maybe dosed each one every other day?? I have to watch the pennies though as we are both on pension.
Once again thanks for your help!!

Hi Sue,
I have shown her pics but for some reason she does not want/like the idea! Strange as she does not mind spiders....even the huge house spiders that we seem to get,or any other creature!!

I will keep chipping away though...she may change her mind....we are hopefully going to the local lfs later today and if they have any snails I will make certain we pass by them.

Info here.... http://www.planetinverts.com/zebra_nerite_snail.html

I have three types of nerite:
Zebras, which have grown to an inch
Red onion/racing stripe/tracked (all names for the same snails) which are also an inch
Bee/bumblebee/horned nerites, which are half an inch (smaller species)

They are all wonderful algae eaters, though they do 'poo' a lot particularly if they have been grazing on wood!

Thanks Sue,
One of the snails is moving about but the other one has not budged an inch? I will keep a close eye on that one just in case it is a duff one!! The fish are nosing around them 

What life expectancy should I get from them? I know it varies but would like a rough idea how long they normally live.

Thanks

Thanks Sue,
Well they have been in the tank for at least 2hrs and the one still has not moved. If it is in the same position about 6pm I will have a small sniff......problem is, I have a cold, and I dare not ask the wife to have a whiff as if it is not alive, and it smells as bad as you say they smell she definitely will not let me have any more.

Thanks Sue,
It is not stinking at the moment.

I have sourced a small plastic dish (which floats) and will put the snail in just before the tank lights are due to go off. Else would it "go off" too much if it is dead,  if I left it where it was overnight?

Take into account that I am up at 4am.

Thanks Sue,
Keeping an eye is not a problem. When I had a sniff!! I placed right at the front of the tank in a place where I can glance at it during the TV ads without straining my neck