Tropical Fish Forum
Tropical Fish Keeping Help and Advice => Fish Tank Plant Advice => Topic started by: fcmf on October 26, 2019, 06:09:38 PM
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As per Thinkfish Daily News # 1854, I've been having another try at caring for a couple of live plants.
The floating plants are doing ok - 80% of the parts are still alive after almost 2 months which isn't bad by my standards (20% have turned yellow or been singed/scorched by the overhead light and thus discarded - don't plan to change this light to LED while it's still functioning).
The 3-week-old Echinodorus Amazonicus turned a bit slimy, but has had a root tab under it. For the past couple of weeks, the leaves have turned into a skeleton like a cobweb which I assume will completely disintegrate / die. On the positive side, there are some new stems/leaves slowly sprouting up from the bottom, so fingers crossed. Does this sound ok / what might be expected (@Matt)?
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Sounds completely normal @fcmf and like things are progressing nicely. I would normally recommend removal of any dying pant material, however, the signs of yellowing in your floating plants could be a sign of nutrient deficiency. If this continues once the swords leave have disappeared, you may wish to add a micros only fertiliser which contains phosphorus (personal recommendation - JBL Ferropol though there are many others). This should keep them healthy.
Have you ever tried any truly aquatic plants?
https://forums.thinkfish.co.uk/aquascaping/truly-aquatic-plants-why-you-don't-need-co2/ (https://forums.thinkfish.co.uk/aquascaping/truly-aquatic-plants-why-you-don't-need-co2/) these are likely to have less of an adjustment phase as they should be grown underwater in the nurseries. Cryot balansae is another option normally grown submerged in the nurseries and is a beautiful plant. Of course there is the "crypt melt" that can occur instead, though personally I've been fairly lucky on this front with most of those I've bought.
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Thanks, @Matt - very helpful. Also thanks for the reminder of that helpful thread - interestingly, those truly aquatic plants are probably the plants I have had better luck with in the past than others (I'll need to check my old records but, re vallis, I know one vallis did a lot better than another).
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I'm attaching here photos of the two parts of the Amazon sword plant. When I got it, and removed the rock wool, it naturally divided into two. The healthier one/part with more leaves was more out in the open than the less healthier one which was shaded more by silk plants but I moved it forward in the tank ~10 days ago. Both have a root tab underneath. Neither is dead (and thus quite an achievement for me), but nor have they changed much in the past fortnight. Views/suggestions welcome; thanks.
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How long have you had it? They are not the fastest growers, and would need some adjustment time from emergent to submerged growth.
How deep are they planted? Could they go deeper without covering the crown? The roots in the water on one of the photos make me think they could maybe be planted deeper.
They look algae free as well which is also a sign they are healthy.
What light do you have on the tank and what wattage is it. The photos look dim... is it just the photos though maybe?
Sorry more questions than anything else here... but want to try and help you as best I can! Determined to get your tank looking like a jungle some day!
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If this continues once the swords leave have disappeared, you may wish to add a micros only fertiliser which contains phosphorus...
Hi @Matt
I'm confused. If it's a 'micros only' fertilizer, it will not contain phosphorus as this is a macro fert.
JPC
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Thanks, @Matt. I like Qs - anything to get the help I require. :)
It's been in the tank for 6 weeks.
I could definitely increase the depth of the sand - it's probably 1cm depth, varying around the tank from a few mm to an inch, depending on where I've tried to stack it up to keep (silk) plants upright, but I have a small amount left in the original bag that I could add to the tank to create a deeper substrate.
Yes, no algae on this plant (yet) - just as well you can't see the poor anubias which is prone to black beard algae.
The light is a T8 Aqua-Glo - possibly 15W, if I assume it's an 18" one in a 24" tank (don't want to disturb the tank by poking around in the cupboard under their tank to retrieve the original packaging) - but it's 3.5 years old so is possibly dimmer than it would have been at the start. The tannins from the catappa leaves may also contribute to brightness levels. [I'm not keen to convert over to LEDs while it's still functioning - I like using things until they expire, although I do have a spare T8 bulb in the cabinet.]
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If this continues once the swords leave have disappeared, you may wish to add a micros only fertiliser which contains phosphorus...
Hi @Matt
I'm confused. If it's a 'micros only' fertilizer, it will not contain phosphorus as this is a macro fert.
JPC
Many "non complete" ferts contain phosphorus alongside the micros... just need to make sure you at one that does. Theres a lost on my site. They won't contain nitrogen (present in water supply and added via the fish) and potassium (added in fish food) and therefore not required in a tank with low plant mass and decent fish stocking levels.
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@fcmf I reckon some more substrate and a change of light bulb would be beneficial. Neither cam hurt I suspect.
What root tabs do you use by the way?
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Thanks, @Matt - I'll try these.
The root tabs are Easylife's Root Sticks. These are 5.5 cm long each, and I'd been chopping off a section of only about 0.5 cm to use (mainly because of previous episodes of the entire tank water turning cloudy red if the root tabs were disturbed). Looking at the photo on the side of the tub, though, I think I ought to be using a whole stick underneath each plant... :-[
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5cm sounds far too much, I would agree. Maybe with a bit more substrate though a second 0.5cm root tab section could be used?
Edited to add: just found on their website 1 tab is enough for 15cm2 substrate so 1cm for 1 plant probably feels about right :cheers:
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If this continues once the swords leave have disappeared, you may wish to add a micros only fertiliser which contains phosphorus...
Hi @Matt
I'm confused. If it's a 'micros only' fertilizer, it will not contain phosphorus as this is a macro fert.
JPC
Many "non complete" ferts contain phosphorus alongside the micros... just need to make sure you at one that does. Theres a lost on my site. They won't contain nitrogen (present in water supply and added via the fish) and potassium (added in fish food) and therefore not required in a tank with low plant mass and decent fish stocking levels.
Hi @Matt,
I had a look on your web site but could not find the information to which you were referring. Could you please let me have a link?
JPC
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The root tabs are Easylife's Root Sticks.
Hi @fcmf
The only specific nutrient that Easy-Life mentions for their Root Sticks is iron. They also make reference to 'clay sticks'. From this I deduce that these sticks are made of laterite. So, your Amazon Sword(s) will not be getting significant amounts of any other nutrients at its/their roots. I'd be tempted to try one of the following:
https://www.seachem.com/flourish-tabs.php
or:
https://thenutrientcompany.com/products/tnc-plugs#description
The good thing about both of the above products is that they provide a detailed breakdown of all the nutrients that they contain. This is much better than those companies who refuse to divulge this information. So, in the event of there still being problems, we can confidently say well it's not an iron deficiency or a magnesium deficiency, for example.
I particularly like the Seachem root tabs as they don't break apart when being pushed into the substrate. I think both the Seachem and TNC root tabs are available from Amazon UK.
Good luck!
JPC
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Thanks, @JPC.
You're quite correct - I've just gone to have a look at the tub of Easy-Life Root Sticks, and checked the cupboard in case any other packaging originally came with it such as an outer cardboard box (answer is 'no'), and there is no ingredients list. (Nor is there for Easy-Life Voogle which I also have.) That's helpful that you've been able to establish one ingredient in it, though.
I'll take your advice and get some new root tabs - one of the two brands you suggest (probably whichever is least likely to contribute to the naturally high phosphate levels already in my tap water, or, that being equal, the Seachem ones due to the lack of breaking-up when inserted into the substrate).
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I'll take your advice and get some new root tabs - one of the two brands you suggest (probably whichever is least likely to contribute to the naturally high phosphate levels already in my tap water, or, that being equal, the Seachem ones due to the lack of breaking-up when inserted into the substrate).
Hi @fcmf
Thanks for pointing out the high phosphate level in your tap water. Out of interest, did you get a figure for phosphate from a water company report or did you measure it with a test kit? My water company report does not include phosphate so I measure it. Anyway, it's now clear cut - the Seachem tabs are your best choice.
I'd also like to add my own personal experience with Amazon Swords. I have one of these plants at the moment. And I've had plenty in previous tanks. They seem to prefer low light. Now, I hate terms like 'low light' because it's not quantified. So, let me elaborate. If you are able to shade the Amazon Sword(s) by using floating plants, for example, that might be to its/their advantage.
JPC
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Great; thanks, @JPC - I'll get the Seachem ones then.
I have an API home testing kit for phosphates, and, from that, discovered that the tank and tap water measures out at 5 ppm! The unit options are 0.0, 0.25, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0, 5.0 and 10.0. The first time I tested, it looked closer to 2 but has been 5 (or almost 5) on the few occasions tested after that.
Thanks - I had read somewhere about partial shading and indeed tried to partially shade them by the silk plants. However, oddly, the better faring half of the plant (they naturally divided into two parts when out of the rock wool) was actually situated less in the shade, and hence why I manoeuvred the worse of the two halves towards the light. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but the only other possibilities accounting for the half that is doing better is that it is situated closer to the filter and the cardinal tetras seem to like hanging around it (so possibly their waste is acting as fertiliser). I could manoeuvre it under the floating plants but, as they are towards the side of the tank, I don't know that it will act as much of a shade. Perhaps the Seachem tabs will live up to their name and provide the flourishing effect I require...
[Edited to add: Sorry, @jaypeecee - I've been linking in a non-existent username instead of this one!]
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I have an API home testing kit for phosphates, and, from that, discovered that the tank and tap water measures out at 5 ppm! The unit options are 0.0, 0.25, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0, 5.0 and 10.0. The first time I tested, it looked closer to 2 but has been 5 (or almost 5) on the few occasions tested after that.
Hi @fcmf
Thanks for the figures. Out of interest, do you have any problems with algae? As I use remineralized RO water in my tanks, I can't remember if I've ever measured phosphate in my tap water. Currently, I use the JBL phosphate test kit but not for much longer. I'm slowly moving away from JBL as their technical support leaves a lot to be desired.
JPC
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No, not much algae. The anubias does have some black beard algae on it - at least the bits that aren't in "dark corner" (where all other live plants died in the past except the anubias). The silk plants, especially the leaves nearest the central part of the tank directly under the light, do develop some BBA weekly and less frequently brownish algae but that's about it, although I do take them out of the tank for a thorough weekly brush with the fishkeeping toothbrush. Very occasionally, I notice a few blobs of green spot algae on the glass. I have two nerite snails in the tank - one favours the glass (and sometimes attempts the silk plant leaves before falling off in acrobat style) and the other favours the wood, while both like the filter and heater; however, it's difficult to tell how much that keeps the situation under control than if they weren't there e.g. there are still a few spots of brown algae here and there on the glass that they don't touch, and so it seems more that the glass-grazing activity is habitual rather than purposeful.
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I'll be keeping an eye on this thread as I have a similar problem with some amazon swords, and put it down to my current situation of being away from home, lights on timers, moving more fish into that tank to empty tanks prior to the move, and the substrate being shifted and plants being dug up by Bertie the BN & all the cories. I'm hoping I can fix everything after the move.
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No, not much algae. The anubias does have some black beard algae on it - at least the bits that aren't in "dark corner" (where all other live plants died in the past except the anubias). The silk plants, especially the leaves nearest the central part of the tank directly under the light, do develop some BBA weekly and less frequently brownish algae but that's about it, although I do take them out of the tank for a thorough weekly brush with the fishkeeping toothbrush.
Hi @fcmf
BBA is a tricky one. Currently, I have an area of BBA on the substrate. But, it's because I have a bare area awaiting plants. In shadowed areas with lower light, BBA is completely absent. You mention 'brownish algae' and that makes me think - diatoms. Otocinclus seem to be effective where diatoms are developing. I seem to remember that diatoms actually belong to the animal, not plant, kingdom. Of course, obtaining healthy Otocinclus is not easy. If you don't already keep them and you decide to buy some, go for those with plump(ish) abdomens.
JPC
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I've found spot dosing guteraldehyde (liquid carbon) during a water change to be quite effective with BBA. Though be careful not to add too much to the tank as you do it. I lost a lot of vallisneria as a result of over jealous spot dosing!
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Thanks, both. BBA and diatoms aren't so bad that I need to take drastic action, and tank is fully stocked, so otos aren't an option for me.
The Flourish tabs arrived in today's mail and now in situ - fingers crossed for a dramatic improvement in the plant's health...
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The Flourish tabs arrived in today's mail and now in situ - fingers crossed for a dramatic improvement in the plant's health...
Hi @fcmf
I've also got my fingers crossed for you. As I mentioned previously, please try to minimize the light falling on your Amazon Swords. I seem to recall that you have fluorescent tank lighting. Perhaps you could also remind me what the water KH and GH are at present.
JPC
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I can answer that for her. Both very low as she lives in Scotland.
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KH and GH are indeed low - although I notice that the recently replenished Tufa rock seems to be helping and I do notice clouds of chalk coming off it if I tamper with it during tank maintenance. From tap water, KH and GH are 1 and 2-3 respectively; from tank water, they are 2-3 and 4.
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KH and GH are indeed low - although I notice that the recently replenished Tufa rock seems to be helping and I do notice clouds of chalk coming off it if I tamper with it during tank maintenance. From tap water, KH and GH are 1 and 2-3 respectively; from tank water, they are 2-3 and 4.
Hi @fcmf
Thanks for the figures. Do you happen to know the pH of the tank water? I ask for several reasons, all of which you may have already considered:
(1) Although not 100% reliable, we can get an idea of how much dissolved CO2 you have in your tank. I'm thinking about a carbon source for your plants.
(2) With a low KH, have you ever had a pH crash in your tank?
(3) I know that you keep Nerites and I know that you provide them with a calcium-rich food source. But, a pH less than, say, 6.5, may erode their shells.
I offer these questions out of curiosity and hopefully to be helpful in some small way.
JPC
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Thanks, @jaypeecee. Actually, I meant to mention the PH issue the other day when talking about water hardness (or softness being the more appropriate term!) but was being called away and forgot to resume that rushed post. Oddly, the PH here is actually alkaline (almost 8, according to the water company!) - but, from recollection, it used to be acidic ~10 years ago. I'm wondering if something is now added to the water to enable that and prevent PH drops, given how soft the water is. It seems to be the same for various postcodes around the country. The website does state "The pH level in your water supply must be controlled so it doesn’t corrode the metal distribution pipes by being too acidic, or leave deposits on the pipes if it’s too alkaline." My strip-based test kit always gives an acidic reading (an error or picking up something about the 'natural' PH..?!), while the liquid-based test kits have always given a reading consistent with the water quality report, including after standing for ~24hrs.
(1) Total carbon is around 1.3 - does that help?
(2) Not in past 5 years, but I did have trouble fishless cycling (albeit with fish food method). However, in the past when much less knowledgeable, I'm almost certain I had PH crashes as PH was around 6 at some stages albeit I only tested very occasionally, usually when there were tank problems. :vcross:
(3) Hopefully this is circumvented by whatever is being added to increase the PH.
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Seachem Flourish tabs in situ for 3 days and... not one iota of difference yet. Hoping for some action over the next week or two...
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Too soon to tell just yet!
Patience... don't forget there x15 less co2 in your tank than in the atmosphere...! :cheers:
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Thanks, @jaypeecee. Actually, I meant to mention the PH issue the other day when talking about water hardness (or softness being the more appropriate term!) but was being called away and forgot to resume that rushed post. Oddly, the PH here is actually alkaline (almost 8, according to the water company!) - but, from recollection, it used to be acidic ~10 years ago. I'm wondering if something is now added to the water to enable that and prevent PH drops, given how soft the water is. It seems to be the same for various postcodes around the country. The website does state "The pH level in your water supply must be controlled so it doesn’t corrode the metal distribution pipes by being too acidic, or leave deposits on the pipes if it’s too alkaline." My strip-based test kit always gives an acidic reading (an error or picking up something about the 'natural' PH..?!), while the liquid-based test kits have always given a reading consistent with the water quality report, including after standing for ~24hrs.
(1) Total carbon is around 1.3 - does that help?
(2) Not in past 5 years, but I did have trouble fishless cycling (albeit with fish food method). However, in the past when much less knowledgeable, I'm almost certain I had PH crashes as PH was around 6 at some stages albeit I only tested very occasionally, usually when there were tank problems. :vcross:
(3) Hopefully this is circumvented by whatever is being added to increase the PH.
Hi @fcmf
Thanks for the feedback. The fact that your water company appears to have increased the water pH makes sense. With reference to strip-based test kits, as you know, they can be notoriously unreliable.
(1) Yes, the figure is of interest. My water company's figure for Total Organic Carbon is also around the same figure. This means that the plants have a source of carbon regardless of what the inhabitants contribute.
(2) OK.
(3) As your pH is 8, this should not be any cause for concern*.
*Edit on 7/12/19: this comment was written with the snails in mind.
JPC
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Seachem Flourish tabs in situ for 3 days and... not one iota of difference yet. Hoping for some action over the next week or two...
Hi @fcmf
I can only echo what @Matt has said. It may be worth taking a snapshot of your Swords at weekly intervals in order to gauge progress (or, dare I say, lack thereof?). With all the best will in the world and armed with some scientific understanding, Nature still takes its own course.
JPC
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I reckon some more substrate and a change of light bulb would be beneficial. Neither cam hurt I suspect.
I don't like wasting anything so was delaying changing the lightbulb. As it happens, though, there was a lot of flickering occurring over the past half hour, albeit it seemed to be more annoying for me than for the fish. Then - whoosh - the lightbulb died. The spare fluorescent lightbulb is now in situ and, goodness, it's a lot brighter - to the extent that the cardinals have all ducked for cover under a silk plant and it really highlights just how very elderly one harlequin rasbora is looking.
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Great to hear the new bulb has made a difference. I so often see people doubting whether it can make such a difference replacing the bulbs... good to see your direct experience that it does! (Im on all LEDs)
Be on the watch out for an increase in algae. You may want to reduce the lighting period if you encounter issues. We can think longer term about what we might need to do to ensure you maintain a good balance in the aquarium if needs be but reduce the lighting duration as a quick fix if you do see any! :cheers:
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The spare fluorescent lightbulb is now in situ and, goodness, it's a lot brighter - to the extent that the cardinals have all ducked for cover under a silk plant and it really highlights just how very elderly one harlequin rasbora is looking.
Hi @fcmf
And could you let us have an update on the Amazon Swords?
JPC
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Strictly speaking, fluorescent tubes should be replaced every year because with this type of tube the light output deceases with age. LEDs are different. They go from full brightness to dead. Since LED bulbs and tubes are made from lots of individual LEDs it can have a dimming effect as more and more die within the bulb/tube.
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And could you let us have an update on the Amazon Swords
Absolutely no change whatsoever - neither worse nor better. However, I'm seeing this as a positive - I've never been fortunate/skilled enough to have plants that have ever required pruning or trimming back, and to have a plant neither dying nor already dead by this stage is an achievement. :D
The floating plants have all but died - they were gradually turning yellow/brown and depleting in numbers, and only a few petals now remain.
Some longstanding anubias I've had finally gave up the ghost today and disintegrated. I think the plastic-coated wire (forget the name for these things), used to keep it attached to the wood, had probably 'strangled' it, hence the disintegration when I tried to re-attach it after giving the wood a scrub during today's water change.
However, I'm pleased the Amazon swords (strictly, one Amazon sword divided into two) are still there.
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I recently discovered that anubias aren't actually aquatic plants but marginal plants which is why they have a tendency to give up and die after a while. My coffeefolia all but died, I only have a small bit still hanging on, and one of my big two is now down to a third of the size it was a couple of weeks ago.
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And could you let us have an update on the Amazon Swords
Absolutely no change whatsoever - neither worse nor better. However, I'm seeing this as a positive - I've never been fortunate/skilled enough to have plants that have ever required pruning or trimming back, and to have a plant neither dying nor already dead by this stage is an achievement. :D
The floating plants have all but died - they were gradually turning yellow/brown and depleting in numbers, and only a few petals now remain.
Some longstanding anubias I've had finally gave up the ghost today and disintegrated. I think the plastic-coated wire (forget the name for these things), used to keep it attached to the wood, had probably 'strangled' it, hence the disintegration when I tried to re-attach it after giving the wood a scrub during today's water change.
However, I'm pleased the Amazon swords (strictly, one Amazon sword divided into two) are still there.
Hi @fcmf
OK, that's all valuable information. As the floating plants have access to atmospheric CO2, the reason they will have perished is a lack of nutrients (fertilizers) in the water column. You will need an all-inclusive fertilizer that contains both macro and micro nutrients. Now that your lighting is brighter due to the new fluorescent tube/bulb, that will increase the requirement for fertilizers. TNC Complete comes to mind and you may be able to get it from Amazon. But there are plenty of alternatives. That may be all that's needed right now but we may also need to include a source of additional carbon if the Swords show little sign of growth.
BTW, Anubias thrive in low-light conditions. They don't take well to lots of light.
JPC
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Argh - frustratingly, I lost my post as the photo in it was too large to attach, so I'll try again.
Thanks. I have a bottle of https://seachem.co.uk/product/seachem-flourish/ in the fridge, plus some frozen cubes of it in the freezer, BBE/expiry 08/2020 although opened a few years ago. [Edited to add: https://www.seachem.com/support/forums/forum/sunken-gardens/24397-flourish-expire-date - good news.] If that were to address the micro elements, presumably I'd need a macro fertiliser with minimal phosphorus given my high phosphate level?
Anubias thrived in "dead corner" - the darkest corner where no other plant has survived more than 48 hours. Unfortunately it kept detaching itself from the stone there, hence its relocation, and ultimate demise after being 'strangled' onto the wood. :'(
This photo is of what remains of the floating plants. I used to have them completely filling 3 of these feeding rings, to prevent them being pushed around the tank in the water flow. This wouldn't have adversely affected them, would it? [Edited to add: can't shrink photo any further, so will have to do without its addition.]
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Flourish nitrogen will be the only other product you need as the standard flourish contains potassium, and you don't want to increase your phosphorus. However you may get away without it IF you have enough nitrate in your water... what do you get as pre and post water change nitrate readings?
Definately agree with JPC that you should start doing the seachems flourish at the normal recommended dose rate.
The rings should not have affected your floating plants. I would use these as your target... get these growing well as this means conditions will be right for the slower growing sword.
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Flourish nitrogen will be the only other product you need as the standard flourish contains potassium, and you don't want to increase your phosphorus.
It is unfortunate that Seachem refer to Flourish as a 'comprehensive plant supplement'. Here is their full description of this product:
"Flourish® is a comprehensive plant supplement for the natural freshwater aquarium. It contains a rich assortment of important micro elements, trace elements and other nutrients." No mention of the macro nutrients! In fact, it only contains small quantities of the macros, as follows:
Total Nitrogen 0.007%
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 0.01%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 0.37%
If nitrate in the tank is already, say, 40ppm or greater, then it may not be necessary to supplement nitrogen. And, in a recent post, I do believe that @fcmf has high phosphate. But, @fcmf would appear to already have Seachem Flourish, so let's start with that and see how things unfold. Between @Matt and myself, we'll get you there, @fcmf.
JPC
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I'll add the Flourish for now but am a bit reluctant to add nitrogen as I'm keen to keep my nitrates low. Will keep you posted...
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Watch this...
What's your nitrate level?
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I also discovered recently that tropica nutrition capsules don't dissolve in water but are rather broken down by bacteria in the substrate. These might be worth a try also, but let's get your water column dosing right first!!
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I'll add the Flourish for now but am a bit reluctant to add nitrogen as I'm keen to keep my nitrates low. Will keep you posted...
Hi @fcmf
It would be very helpful to know your current nitrate level.
JPC
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I've always struggled to read the liquid-based one - comparing a tube of fizziness .v. a plain card, so I always use a test strip as well. Collectively, these tend to suggest that nitrates are 25 or under, with tap water at 0. However, I'm really not keen on allowing them to be any higher than that.
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I've always struggled to read the liquid-based one - comparing a tube of fizziness .v. a plain card, so I always use a test strip as well. Collectively, these tend to suggest that nitrates are 25 or under, with tap water at 0. However, I'm really not keen on allowing them to be any higher than that.
Hi @fcmf
I'm very surprised that you get "fizziness" with your liquid nitrate test kit. I've never seen that with the liquid test kits that I use (JBL, Tropic Marin and AquaCare). If you can maintain nitrate between 15ppm and 25ppm, then that should be fine. I also seem to recall that you were concerned about the phosphate level in your tank. Do you have any phosphate figures that you could share?
JPC
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Nitrate test is Waterlife.
I have an API home testing kit for phosphates, and, from that, discovered that the tank and tap water measures out at 5 ppm! The unit options are 0.0, 0.25, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0, 5.0 and 10.0. The first time I tested, it looked closer to 2 but has been 5 (or almost 5) on the few occasions tested after that.
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Nitrate test is Waterlife.
I have an API home testing kit for phosphates, and, from that, discovered that the tank and tap water measures out at 5 ppm! The unit options are 0.0, 0.25, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0, 5.0 and 10.0. The first time I tested, it looked closer to 2 but has been 5 (or almost 5) on the few occasions tested after that.
Thanks for the info.
JPC
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The only specific nutrient that Easy-Life mentions for their Root Sticks is iron. They also make reference to 'clay sticks'. From this I deduce that these sticks are made of laterite.
As an update, I contacted Easy-Life to find out what their Root Sticks contain and their response was that "the clay of Root Sticks (montmorillonite clay) contain about 8% iron oxide and about 2% potassium oxide." Hope this is a helpful update for anyone reading this thread.
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The only specific nutrient that Easy-Life mentions for their Root Sticks is iron. They also make reference to 'clay sticks'. From this I deduce that these sticks are made of laterite.
As an update, I contacted Easy-Life to find out what their Root Sticks contain and their response was that "the clay of Root Sticks (montmorillonite clay) contain about 8% iron oxide and about 2% potassium oxide." Hope this is a helpful update for anyone reading this thread.
Hi @fcmf
OK, so it's not laterite. Seems that it's montmorillonite clay. But, from what I've read, montmorillonite contains neither iron nor potassium. Now that you have Seachem Tabs, let's just forget about this Easy-Life product. Shall we? Those in favour, say 'aye'!
JPC ;)
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Admittedly, the discussion about heavy metals in another thread, and their potential impact, resulted in me siphoning out my Seachem tabs and ceasing to dose Seachem Flourish. I felt/feel uneasy about the tiny amount of copper in there, with nerite snails as residents. It would be so much easier if there were a definitive source somewhere of "safe ranges"...
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I know plenty of people that have snail and use Seachem Flourish if that helps put your mind at rest @fcmf
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Admittedly, the discussion about heavy metals in another thread, and their potential impact, resulted in me siphoning out my Seachem tabs and ceasing to dose Seachem Flourish. I felt/feel uneasy about the tiny amount of copper in there, with nerite snails as residents. It would be so much easier if there were a definitive source somewhere of "safe ranges"...
Hi @fcmf
Ask and ye shall find!
I have a large 'library' of reference material that I have gathered in my Dropbox account. Most of that is aquatics-related. So, in answer to your question about the toxicity of heavy metals to snails, I have a paper that appeared in Scientific World Journal a few years ago. Here is the link and note that you can download the paper for free as a PDF:
https://www.hindawi.com/journals/tswj/2012/125785/
The research was carried out on Malaysian Trumpet Snails. All the information that you require is conveniently contained in the Abstract. I measure copper with - wait for it - John's Copper Check dip strips. It is a SenSafe product and it measures down to 0.05 mg/l. I also have an API copper test kit but it's not as sensitive as the one I use.
If you have any problem understanding the figures in the research paper, just shout!
JPC
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Thanks, both - and you're a star, JPC, as that paper (plus the other one you posted yesterday for Sue) is exactly the nature of evidence I like to read.
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Thanks, both - and you're a star, JPC, as that paper (plus the other one you posted yesterday for Sue) is exactly the nature of evidence I like to read.
Hi @fcmf
Thanks for your kind words.
I thought I'd put the copper figure in context by quoting my tap water copper figures for 2018:
Minimum 0.01
Mean 0.23
Maximum 1.02
PCV* 2
* Prescribed Concentration or Value
All figures in mg/l
JPC