Seachem Prime Use Advice Please

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Offline Naomi12345

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Seachem prime use advice please
« on: December 22, 2013, 11:10:11 AM »
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I have a bottle of Seachem that was recommended to me as a routine water dechlorinator with lots of other benefits. Did help when I had an uncycled tank. However I know it affects the ammonia readings on a water test but I am reluctant to use it routinely for this reason as like to check water regularly and want to know which other factors it affects ie pH nitrates and nitrites.
Tank been running since July - 90 litre fluval Roma - 6 neons, 6 platies, 7 male guppies, 3 panda cories and 11 cherry shrimp. 
Have a large bottle of the stuff and when other dechlorinator runs out want to use it as not a cheap purchase!!
Thanks
Naomi

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Siamese Fighting Fish (female) (7) - Golden Barb (3) - Black Phantom Tetra (5) - Cherry Barb (1) - Neon Tetra (10) - Slender Harlequin (2) - Siamese Fighting Fish (male) (1) - Flame Tetra (6) - Platy (8) - Harlequin Rasbora (4) - Neon Tetra (9) - Honey Gourami (2) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Sue

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Re: Seachem prime use advice please
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2013, 11:41:05 AM »
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Lots of people use Prime. It is very concentrated so works out cheaper to use despite the purchase price, and it 'detoxifies' ammonia.

Regarding prime affecting test results, it is only the ammonia one that has the problem as one of the ingredients in Prime interferes with the chemical reaction in the ammonia test used in most home testing kits.
Prime does not interfere with any other test we do.


Once your bottle finally runs out, depending on what your water company uses to disinfect your tapwater, there are other alternatives. I use API Tap Water Conditioner. This is also very concentrated (1 drop per 3.8 litres for chlorine, 3 drops for chloramine) but it does not detoxify ammonia. As I have chlorine in my tapwater it is not a problem for me, but with chloramine you would need to use a separate product to detoxify the ammonia made from the chloramine until the filter bacteria have had time to remove it.

Offline Naomi12345

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Re: Seachem prime use advice please
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2013, 03:21:14 PM »
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Thanks very much Sue! I'm currently using nutrafin aqua plus tap water conditioner and will move onto the prime when finished. Did buy it on recommendation so intend to stick with it if all goes ok!
If the ammonia reading is the only one affected think I'm fine as that is zero currently before use. How long does it affect readings for?  I think I can monitor  overall water quality of the tank from the other 3 and ignore any wayward ammonia readings.

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Siamese Fighting Fish (female) (7) - Golden Barb (3) - Black Phantom Tetra (5) - Cherry Barb (1) - Neon Tetra (10) - Slender Harlequin (2) - Siamese Fighting Fish (male) (1) - Flame Tetra (6) - Platy (8) - Harlequin Rasbora (4) - Neon Tetra (9) - Honey Gourami (2) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Sue

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Re: Seachem prime use advice please
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2013, 07:09:33 PM »
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Ignore what I said earlier about Prime interfering with the test - I've just looked on Seachem's website.

Seachem's website says
Quote
A Nessler based kit will not read ammonia properly if you are using Prime®... it will look "off scale", sort of a muddy brown (incidentally a Nessler kit will not work with any other products similar to Prime®). A salicylate based kit can be used, but with caution. Under the conditions of a salicylate kit the ammonia-Prime complex will be broken down eventually giving a false reading of ammonia (same as with other products like Prime®), so the key with a salicylate kit is to take the reading right away.

The Nessler test goes yellower the more ammonia there is then brownish; the salicylate test goes green with more ammonia. I know the API ammonia tester is salicylate as that goes green as you go up the colour chart. I think most home testers are salicylate as the Nessler reagent is a mercury compound, not very nice in the home.



I have just been discussing this with my husband. I have a 40 year old degree in chemistry and I've forgotten a lot. Husband has a doctorate in chemistry and he's also forgotten a lot. Younger son has a degree in chemistry and he's currently doing research for a doctorate (admittedly in theoretical chemistry) so he won't have forgotten nearly as much as us. We'll be seeing him over Christmas so I'll pick his brains then.

But in the mean time:
Ammonia dissolves in water; some of it is in the form of ammonia, some in the form ammonium. Ammonium is much less toxic to fish than ammonia. The two are in an equilibrium, and the amount in each form is determined by a combination of temperature and pH. The higher the pH, the more there is in the toxic ammonia form; and the warmer the water, the more ammonia there is. Salicylate testers measure both ammonia and ammonium together. This is why a lot of people say these testers are useless, they don't tell you how much of the total is ammonia.
Prime and other similar products are designed for use with chloramine as the water disinfectant, which is more widely used in the US than the UK. They break the chloramine up into chlorine and ammonia, then detoxify the ammonia part until the filter bacteria can remove it. But the website doesn't say how exactly, just that it forms a Prime-ammonia complex. The data sheet says it contains complexed hydrosulfite salts but these are the chlorine removing chemicals.  They don't say what they use to 'detoxify' ammonia and nitrite.

The best I can make of what they are saying is that something in Prime binds ammonia (thus removing it from harming the fish) leaving the less toxic ammonium in the water. And the test kits are only measuring ammonium not both. Then the complex breaks down liberating the ammonia and the test kit reads both again. But I don't understand how the complexed-ammonia-plus-free-ammonium scenario can be the accurate one with the liberated-ammonia-plus-ammonium being the false one.

Leave this one with me till I can ask my son. He has also worked for a water testing company which may help him shed some light on this.

Offline Sue

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Re: Seachem prime use advice please
« Reply #4 on: December 25, 2013, 05:16:03 PM »
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I have just spent half an hour with my son and the internet. As a student, he has access to websites I don't. We couldn't find anything of any real use. But talking with him, we think we have worked out what Seachem mean.

Most American water suppliers use chloramine instead of chlorine as a disinfectant as do some, but not all,  UK water companies. Chloramine is chlorine and ammonia joined together. All dechlorinators contain thiosulphate which reacts with chlorine and prevents it harming the filter bacteria. With chloramine, it removes the chlorine part and leaves the ammonia half of the molecule in the water. Prime and other dechlorinators contain a chemical (and we failed to find what it is!) that binds this ammonia. It is not ammonia made by the fish, it is ammonia that comes from tapwater. This ammonia-Prime complex slowly breaks down and liberates ammonia which is then detected by our test kits. We are reasoning that Seachem say you get a false reading after the complex breaks down is just because you are measuring the ammonia that comes from the tapwater and not ammonia made by the fish.

Of course, if for some reason you have a lot of ammonia made by the fish in the tank water - because you are cycling or had a problem with the filter - that will be treated the same as the ammonia from chloramine. It will be bound by whatever it is in Prime then released again slowly. This is why the advice is always to not rely on this type of dechlorinator during a fish-in cycle as the effect only lasts a day or two.

So the answer to your question is - if you have just chlorine in your tapwater it shouldn't make any difference when you test as the only ammonia in the tank will be from your fish which should only be present in a trace amount too low for our testers to pick up. If you are worried about checking to make sure your filter is working properly, wait a day or two after a water change, then test.
But if you have chloramine, if you test immediately after a water change, you'll get a reading which does not include the ammonia from chloramine - but it will also not measure any ammonia from the fish if the filter has a problem. After a couple of days, you might get an ammonia reading but that would most likely be the chloramine-ammonia. If the filter is working properly, that will be removed pretty quickly by the filter. The best time to test for ammonia if you do have chloramine is a few days after a water change.


I'm typing this while surrounded by people talking - if I haven't made sense, tell me  ;D

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