Fat Fish

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Offline Chucklett

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #20 on: October 22, 2012, 08:06:33 PM »
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Congratulations Sue, Ive just noticed you've been promoted to "Junior Member"  ;D

The water is so bad we seriously thought we must be on an old tank in the loft. Having discussed it with my dad, he's sure we're on the mains because the hot water heats up in a minute or two from the boiler (can hear the boiler kick in when turning on the hot tap). If we were on a tank, it would take a lot longer and we would have an immersion heater. We're definitely going to get on to the water Company. Will keep you posted.

Offline Sue

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #21 on: October 23, 2012, 08:25:20 AM »
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I'm not 100% sure but I think you progress from newbie to jr member at 50 posts - that's round about where I noticed I'd moved up a grade  ;D

Have you had a look in the attic? Because of tales of houses where the only mains water is the kitchen tap, whenever we've moved house I've sat next to the attic tank and got someone to run the bathroom cold tap to see if the water there came from the tank or the mains (water soon starts to run into the tank if the tap runs from the tank). All this because it is not safe to even clean your teeth in the bathroom if the cold water comes from the tank. Doing that would tell you which of your taps run off the mains and which don't.

Offline Chucklett

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #22 on: October 23, 2012, 08:50:56 AM »
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No we havent looked in the loft. The hatch is all of 18" square - a child could get up there! My sister-in-law stuck her head up and was faced with the chimney stack!

My husband was going to squidge up and have a look last week, but one of the housing reps happened to drop by so we asked them if we are on the mains and they are "sure" that we are. They told us to get onto the water company.

The cold water does the same in bathroom and kitchen - runs clear for a minute or two then slowly turns browner & browner the longer you run it. The electric shower doesnt seem to do it, nor the hot taps. Though I havent really run the hot taps particularly long enough to tell. I will try them before ringing the water company, just so I know exactly whats what when I phone!

Offline Sue

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #23 on: October 23, 2012, 08:58:47 AM »
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You could always try sticking your head and shoulders into the hole and listening for water running in the attic  ;D ;D ;D

Offline SteveS

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #24 on: October 23, 2012, 11:14:06 AM »
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Brown water is usually caused by iron deposits in your pipes.  These deposits are caused, generally, by cast-iron pipes which, over time, will rust.  These deposits settle in low activity areas of the supply.  They can be disturbed by any changes in flow, you turning on your tap for example, and result in yukky water.

The problem may be the water companies responsibility, or it may not.  Once the water has crossed from the street into your land, it becomes your responsibility.

The government produces some information leaflets about steps you can take (see link below).  See especially "Discoloured water/Particles in drinking water" and "Looking after water in your home".

Drinking Water Inspectorate

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Angelfish (1) - Panda Cory (10) - Harlequin Rasbora (10) - Otocinclus (10) - Japonica Shrimp (10) - Honey Gourami (10) - Galaxy Rasbora (10) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Chucklett

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #25 on: October 24, 2012, 12:24:25 PM »
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Interesting reading SteveS, thanks for that.

Iron. Wow. I had problems with iron last year (detected by running polyfilter which turned bright orange). Natalia concluded it was leaching from the plant substrate under the gravel. I stripped both tanks down and removed the plant substrate - all was well after that. Im now thinking I should run polyfilter for a while again.

I phoned the water Company yesterday and was told to run the kitchen cold tap for one hour, checking every ten minutes. Philosophy being that this would flush the problem out. I was skeptical, but did as advised. After half-an-hour I was beginning to think what a waste of time/water. Then amazingly, at 40 minutes, the water was running clear again. I still left it the whole hour and the water was still clear. I live in hope that when I draw my 4 buckets tomorrow, the water will still be clear. I dont want to try it out before then because we are on a metre! (they credited an hour to our account for the "flushing"). And besides, I want to see that the problem wont re-occur in the meantime.

The good news for now is that I havent lost any fish since water change at the weekend. In fact, Ive gained fish - one of my oldest female mollies gave birth Monday night! She didnt wait for lights-out this time so I actually saw a wee fry pop out  ;D (though I turned the lights off for her after that because she was trying to see off the other fish whilst giving birth!)

Offline Don

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #26 on: October 24, 2012, 04:29:53 PM »
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Thats useful to no steve.

We have a tank but its been disconected as a combi boiler has been installed. I found our tank because there was a weird patch of damp mould in our bedroom upstairs on the ceiling with nothing around it, went in the loft and there it was. I guess water was condensing on the metal. so if you have a random patch of condensation mould it could be a left over tank if it has been bypassed.

That sounds like possible good news hopefully steve was right and the iron deposits have been flushed out Even better news that you have lost nothing else since the last water change and the mollys are at it again, i cant remeber what your water peramiters were before but it may be even better for the mollies with the harder water as aparently they like it like that, part of the reason mine always died as my water is beyond soft.


A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Golden Pencilfish (25) - Panda Cory (20) - Panda Dwarf Cichlid (2) - Lampeye Panchax (15) - Bristlenose Plec (2) - Discus (7) - Sparkling Gourami (8) - Japonica Shrimp (10) - Bristlenose Plec (3) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Sue

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #27 on: October 24, 2012, 05:08:09 PM »
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In an older house, a damp patch could also be a leaking tank! My elder son and his wife bought a 1940s house last year. The mortgage surveyor said he thought the roof was leaking but it turned out to be the attic tank on the point of disintegration. And back in the 1970s my father was getting a suitcase out of the attic and noticed a patch of rust on his tank. The plumber who replaced it said it could have developed into a hole at any time so it was a good job he'd found it.
More modern houses have plastic tanks so at least they shouldn't rust.

Offline SteveS

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #28 on: October 24, 2012, 05:19:41 PM »
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Older tanks are made from galvanized steel, so if they corrode this could be a further source of iron in your water.

Incidentally, if you have unpressurised central heating, you will need a feed and expansion tank but this should be separate from the break tank connected to your hot and cold water system because the central heating contains some quite nasty chemicals to prevention corrosion and lime scale build-up!

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Angelfish (1) - Panda Cory (10) - Harlequin Rasbora (10) - Otocinclus (10) - Japonica Shrimp (10) - Honey Gourami (10) - Galaxy Rasbora (10) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Chucklett

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #29 on: October 24, 2012, 07:53:07 PM »
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Curiouser and Curiouser!!!! You guys are really making me wonder what is in our loft! When we moved in, half the bathroom ceiling was peeling from damp (well, saturation actually!). Damp patches extended into the kitchen and hallway ceilings / upper parts of the walls, though not to the extent of peeling paint. The repair guys came and found a tile missing off the roof. They replaced it, peeked in the loft (head through the hatch!) and declared the missing tile was the cause. We took their word for it that nothing else untoward was going on........ I do hope they were right - I dont fancy sticking my head in that wee hole! To be fair, the ceiling does seem to have since dried out and the repair guys have painted the affected ceilings/walls with special paint. One or two small patches in the bathroom have started showing through again, but I gather damp is a nightmare to cover up without it coming back through.

We assume there is a tank of some nature in the loft. The property is around 50+ years old and we know that a new central heating system was installed just prior to us moving in. We guess thats when the open fireplace was blocked off.

Don, we too have softer-than-a-babies-bottom water in the sunny South West! I also thought that the higher pH would be better for my mollies so I tried to "acclimatise" the tank to the tap pH. For a couple of weeks, when doing a water change, I slowly added one bucket straight from the tap (correct temperature & dechlorinated of course!). A couple of hours later, I slowly added another bucket. Another couple of hours, I slowly added the third bucket and finally the fourth bucket another couple of hours later. Blow me, the tank still came out at pH 7.4  :o I concluded that trying to mess with the pH like that was worse than keeping it at the 7.4 its been stable at for the last 21/2 years. Thats when I decided to let the water stand, allowing it to drop to 7.4 before using it in the tank.
Really, it was only the black molly (Dreckly) that would strongly object to the water. The slightest thing out of the ordinary for her and she would break out in mould (saprolegnia). She was one of the two that died last Monday  :(

SteveS, your post about unpressurised central heating lost me. Sorry   :-[

Offline SteveS

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #30 on: October 24, 2012, 08:54:25 PM »
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You can't mess with your pH that way!  Whether you let the water stand before adding it to the tank, or adding it to the tank immediately, it's still the same water with the same chemicals and hence, ultimately, the same pH.  The main reason the pH changes when you let the water rest is that the gasses dissolved in the water whilst it is under pressure in your pipes is released when it is under no pressure in your bucket, (or aquarium).

SteveS, your post about unpressurised central heating lost me. Sorry   :-[
A traditional, or old, central heating system is filled with water from a tank in the loft.  When the water is heated, it expands and the excess is forced back into this tank.  It is called an unpressurised system because the excess pressure caused by the expansion is released by blowing the water back into the tank, called a feed and expansion tank.  Because water is forced from the system itself, any contaminants in the water are released back into this tank.  This is why it must be separate from your normal break tank that feeds the rest of your house.

A modern heating system is filled with water and then sealed.  Any expansion just increases the pressure in the heating system itself.  There is no release.  (Well, there will be some form of safety valve in case anything goes haywire).  These systems are more efficient as you do not lose heat into the feed and expansion tank and you can drive them to higher temperatures.




A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Angelfish (1) - Panda Cory (10) - Harlequin Rasbora (10) - Otocinclus (10) - Japonica Shrimp (10) - Honey Gourami (10) - Galaxy Rasbora (10) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Don

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #31 on: October 24, 2012, 10:39:07 PM »
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Hmmm could possibly be leaking, the house is about 110 years old so proably a rotten water tank. Needs to come out anyway as i said its been bypased by the combi boiler presuried system. Its ideal for me with my south americans think both my tanks are ph 6.2 harness 3-5 degrees.

Mollys can be funny things ive known people to keep them at ph 8 an brackish and they love it apparently. Im guessing your other fish are doing fine?  Sounds like trial and error but if the added tap water wether left to stand or aclimatised isnt affecting the tank ph then you may be okay. Am i correct in thinking you say the water is soft but the ph is 8 or so?

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Golden Pencilfish (25) - Panda Cory (20) - Panda Dwarf Cichlid (2) - Lampeye Panchax (15) - Bristlenose Plec (2) - Discus (7) - Sparkling Gourami (8) - Japonica Shrimp (10) - Bristlenose Plec (3) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Chucklett

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #32 on: October 25, 2012, 07:13:53 PM »
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You can't mess with your pH that way!
Do you mean leaving the water stand before using it in the tank, or the bit where I tried to "acclimatise" the tank to the tap?

If the former, then its something Ive done for well over a year now. When I first set the tank up (over 2 years ago) the tap was pH 7.4 and the tank was merrily stable at the same rate. For a long time, I could do "normal" maintenance. Then suddenly I started losing fish when doing a water change. A test on the tap water showed it had shot up to pH 8.2 - 8.4. Thats when I started leaving the water stand overnight before using it in the tank and all was well again when doing water changes. It was like that for quite a while before the tap came back down to pH 7.4 and so "normality" resumed, though I still tested the tap every week before water changing as it seemed to fluctuate so much. Sure enough, a while later, the tap shot up again so I was back to leaving the water stand. And thats how its been ever since.
But Im confused (again!) - surely its better to let the tap water stand in order for the pH to drop equal to the tank before putting it in?

If you refer to the latter, then it seemed like a good idea at the time! But yes I realised it wasnt such a bright idea when the tank was still coming out at pH 7.4! Hence why I stopped after a couple of attempts.




Yes Don, all other fish are fine (touch wood). To be honest, I havent actually tested the hardness here yet  :-[ Im assuming its just as soft as it was at the flat (about 15 miles away) given that Cornwall is renowed to have soft water. Unfortunatley, my computer is playing up at the mo so I cant access my fishy files to look back at the readings. I cant say off-hand whether the hardness was tested when the pH was lower or higher. Out of interest, I will let you know when I can get into my files and in the meantime, will test the hardness here  ;)

Offline SteveS

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #33 on: October 26, 2012, 01:38:16 PM »
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Do you mean leaving the water stand before using it in the tank, or the bit where I tried to "acclimatise" the tank to the tap?
I'm referring to the latter;  It won't affect the pH in your tank except, perhaps, for a very short time.

surely its better to let the tap water stand in order for the pH to drop equal to the tank before putting it in?
Hmmm... As a general case, I'm not convinced;  I don't see how it can do any harm though.

But I'm confused (again!
Don't be confused, if it works for you, go for it.

A Selection of Fish in my Fish Community Creator Tanks
Angelfish (1) - Panda Cory (10) - Harlequin Rasbora (10) - Otocinclus (10) - Japonica Shrimp (10) - Honey Gourami (10) - Galaxy Rasbora (10) -
Note: The user may not necessarily own these fish, these are tanks that they may be building or researching for stocking purposes


Offline Chucklett

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Re: Fat Fish
« Reply #34 on: October 26, 2012, 06:56:08 PM »
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Don't be confused, if it works for you, go for it.

Understood!!!!!  ;D

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