New Mollies

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Offline Fiona

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #20 on: April 18, 2016, 11:12:59 AM »
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LT the nitrates in my tank are quite high too. My tap water is 40ppm and using API master test kit my tank nitrates are somewhere between 40-80ppm. Its quite hard to read the levels once they get over 40ppm.

Do you hoover the gravel or just change the water? It's possible uneaten food, poop and other gunk is rotting away in the substrate raising your nitrates.

Offline Sue

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #21 on: April 18, 2016, 03:42:34 PM »
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I agree on getting nitrates down.

Whitespot aka ich looks as though the fish has been sprinkled with salt. And if one fish has got it the chances are the other fish will have it soon. But whitespot does not look like streaks in the fins.
I have never heard of 'molly spot'. I know that mollies can get something called the shimmies if they are kept in water that is too soft, but that is a swimming problem not a spotty problem. So I have just googled molly spot and the only site that came up shows a pic of what looks like ich though the site says it is not a disease but a symptom of water quality - possibly the high nitrates. The site also says that mollies are brackish fish - wrong - and they need salt in their water - also wrong. Mollies are hard water fish, they must have hard water to thrive. they can also survive in brackish to full sea water but they do not need it. The 'hardness' minerals are much more important.


Melafix is an antiseptic rather than a cure. It's akin to us putting dettol on a cut to stop it getting infected, but if it does get infected dettol is no use.

Protozin is an anti ich medication. Most ich meds say to increase the temperature as this speeds up the parasite's lifecycle so if the bottle of Protozin says to increase temp, ignore the shop and turn the heater up.
Ich does not cause death unless the fish's gills get infected, or there is something else wrong with the fish and whitespot pushes it over the edge as it were. I am currently battling ich yet again and none of my fish have died.

Your pH difference - what is the pH of tap water that has been allowed to stand for 24 hours? As you have hard water the mains pipes are at risk of limescale build up so the water company may pump carbon dioxide into the mains water to lower the pH to reduce the risk of limescale. In this scenario, tap water pH will increase on standing as the carbon dioxide gasses out.
Is there anything in the tank that could increase the pH such as limestone rocks or gravel?

You can look up your water company on the site I gave in this thread. Once you locate your water region's report, scroll down till you find the section on nitrite. That is where they give a list of places where chloramine is used. If your water source is not mentioned, they use chlorine.

If the fish is losing some of his fin, that is finrot not ich.


So we have:
  • Hard water - good for mollies
  • Tank pH higher than tap - need to find out why as the sudden change may be causing the behaviour you notice after a water change. If it does turn out that the pH is higher in water that has stood for 24 hours, the remedy is to allow a bucket(s) of water to stand overnight before doing a water change.
  • Nitrates too high - could be affecting the mollies so nitrate needs to come down.
  • Do the fish have ich or fin rot or something else. The best general purpose medication is eSHa 2000. That treats fin rot and ich according to their website


If we can find out why the mollies react badly to water changes, more and bigger changes will get the nitrate level down. Testing the pH of a glass of water that has stood overnight is the first thing to try.


And as Fiona asked - do you vacuum the gravel when you do a water change?

Offline fcmf

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #22 on: April 18, 2016, 07:47:59 PM »
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Hi fcmc can I email you a picture please?
Sorry that I didn't see this message until now - I've been working all day. Feel free to e-mail me the pic and I'll post it as this might/should help us further to work out what it might be.

I've read a few cases lately where it seems to be difficult to tell if a fish is suffering from whitespot or finrot, and sometimes the medication for what seemed the least likely scenario (finrot) actually was what ultimately helped after a failed attempt with the medication for what seemed like whitespot. Also, sometimes it's possible to use dual medications eg eSHa Exit and eSHa 2000 can be used together, and I suspect that's why the LFS suggested Protozin (for whitespot) plus Melafix (which advertises itself for treating finrot among other conditions). However, as Sue notes, it really is a glorified disinfectant, and the only two ingredients it mentions are melaleuca and cajeput oil.

Once we see a pic, we'll be able to advise further. My hunch is to use something that can treat finrot, as that can take over - but, as crucial and indeed more crucial than a medication, is to have lower nitrates, otherwise it defeats the purpose. I'll keep an eye out for your pic.

[PS. Condolences on your recent loss and on today's funeral.]

Offline LT

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #23 on: April 20, 2016, 12:01:03 AM »
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Hi guys, I Hoover the substrate. Yesterday morning, he really did look like he had been sprinkled with salt over his body and I got a good picture which shows this. Today he looks a lot better in himself and the 'salty' look has been replaced with a creamy looking raised areas on his body - I can't get a good picture but I do have a video. Can anyone give me their email address so I can send them please? I've raised the temperature to 86f and increased the salt to 0.2% - I'm not going to raise the temperature anymore. An article online said to raise the temp between 84-86%. The fish seem happier in themselves at the moment.
I will allow some tap water to stand for 24hours and then test the Ph tomorrow evening. I have no limestone rocks, just sand, drift wood and real plants. I can't find any reference to Chloramine in the link you sent me for my area (London/south east) so must be Chloramine free? My fish has definately lost a chunk out of his tail fin. I will order the esha 2000 too. I I've been doing daily 20litre water changes and my nitrates are down to 20ppm :) The fish seem happier with the water changes too.

Offline fcmf

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #24 on: April 20, 2016, 07:50:33 AM »
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Great to read that the fish seem happier at the moment and that the nitrates are down to 20ppm - they should really feel the benefits of this and frequent water changes to keep them down at this level.

You might find it useful to send your video and pic to Robert who should be able to upload them - http://www.thinkfish.co.uk/forums/what's-going-on-at-thinkfish/think-fish-you-tube-channel/

Offline fcmf

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #25 on: April 20, 2016, 06:49:09 PM »
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Pic of LT's molly. Hopefully this can help with a diagnosis:

Offline Sue

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #26 on: April 20, 2016, 06:58:33 PM »
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It is very hard to tell with it being white but the marks on its tail don't look like whitespot. If the spots on the body are different, then it could be.
The end of the tail is looking ragged which suggests finrot. I would be inclined to get some eSHa 2000 and try that.

eSHa 2000 details

Offline LT

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #27 on: April 20, 2016, 11:16:47 PM »
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Thanks sue, I've ordered some of that medication online but he seems so much better and the fin is even healing up already! Btw the PH of the tap water left overnight is 8.2 - same as the tank but quite a bit higher than when it's straight from the tap. Should I just leave a bucket of water overnight for the water changes? And not treat it at all? I don't have a spare heater so how would I heat the new water before putting it in the tank?

Offline Paddyc

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #28 on: April 21, 2016, 12:08:49 AM »
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I don't have a spare heater so how would I heat the new water before putting it in the tank?

How much water are you changing? I haven't read back through the thread but if the capacity of your tank is at least ten times the amount of water you are adding then You shouldn't need to heat the water at all. The heater in your tank will do it's job and adjust the temp up to where it should be. Fish in nature are constantly subject to temperature fluctuations.

HOWEVER!!!

If the problems you are having with your fish could be exacerbated with temperature fluctuations I think you may have to resort to using freshly dechlorinated water which is set to the tank temperature ie. if you can run the tap hot (combi boiler) or add kettle-boiled water.

Best of luck  :)

Offline Fiona

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #29 on: April 21, 2016, 07:50:11 AM »
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Just boil some of the water you've had standing and add it back to the bucket until you get the temperature you need.

Offline Extreme_One

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #30 on: April 21, 2016, 08:24:10 AM »
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If you're leaving water standing overnight it'll reach room temperature which, unless you live in the Arctic circle, should be far warmer than from straight out the tap.

You won't need to heat water that's room temperature, it might be slightly cooler than your tank water but won't have a significant impact on the temperature in the tank.

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Offline Matt

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #31 on: April 21, 2016, 06:41:13 PM »
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I'm hoping not to take this off topic here, but this raises an interesting question for me... is there a need for any kind of 'additives' to water for aquarium water changes if water is left overnight?

Offline Sue

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #32 on: April 21, 2016, 06:54:47 PM »
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There are 2 parts to the answer.

If your water company uses chloramine as the disinfectant, you do need to use a dechlorinator as chloramine doesn't gas off. If they use chlorine, that does gas off in about 24 hours - or less if you run an air stone in the water container as that drives the chlorine off faster - so you can get away with not using a dechlorinator. Decades ago, before dechlorinators were invented, leaving the new water to stand overnight was the norm when they did water changes.

If you keep creatures that are sensitive to metals (eg shrimps, snails, some fish) you need to use a dechlorinator which also binds metals - most of them do.


Having buckets of water standing round overnight is OK with small tanks but those who have very large tanks can't do that - well, most people can't some of course would be quite happy doing that.
And if you ever need to do an emergency water change you would need to dechlorinate. For example, you'd be surprised how many people who have children or child visitors end up with a whole tub of food emptied into their tanks/biscuits dropped in/cereals emptied in resulting in the need for several consecutive water changes. And even the fishkeeper managing to drop the tub in when feeding the fish  ;D

Offline LT

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #33 on: April 22, 2016, 10:46:59 PM »
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The esha 2000 arrived today and since putting 30drops in my 120litre tank the fish look really unhappy, lethargic, hanging around at the surface and this morning they were active and happy? Is it the esha? Or a coincidence - their behaviour changed an hour or two after putting the treatment in. What should I do?

Offline fcmf

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #34 on: April 22, 2016, 11:22:55 PM »
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Just picking up this message while lying in bed, so just a quick reply.

If you have definitely dosed correctly, then, on the basis of that reaction, I might be inclined to do a partial water change to dilute the effect - anything between 25-50%.


Offline LT

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #35 on: April 23, 2016, 08:27:29 AM »
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I've woken up this morning and the fish are back to their old selfs. I'm supposed to give them a half dose of the medication today and tomorrow but I won't do that now. I'll do my normal water change this morning and test the water. Why would the fish react like this? Is it because of the temperature and the salt? Was all of it combined all a bit much? I'm running two air stones in the tank plus the filter is set to aerate. So I don't think it's an oxygen problem.

Offline Sue

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #36 on: April 23, 2016, 09:20:11 AM »
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It could be that mollies, and your fish in particular, are more sensitive to the medication than my fish, which don't include mollies. Different species of fish can react differently - I once added a combination of Melafix and Pimafix to my tank and killed a whole shoal of pencilfish within an hour. None of the other fish showed any reaction at all.


It shouldn't be the salt as mollies can cope with that. Temperature might, if it got high enough - make sure it goes no higher than 30oC as measured with a thermometer not going by the heater dial setting.

Have you been letting the water change water stand before the change? Does it make any difference?

Offline Fiona

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Re: New Mollies
« Reply #37 on: April 23, 2016, 10:43:12 AM »
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When you do a water change during treatment, you need to replace what you've taken out in the change. I'd also suggest half doses over several days until the full dose has been added to the tank.

I'm beginning to think you might have been unlucky enough to buy 2 very weak mollies.

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