Logistics Of Adding Fish To A Newly Cycled Tank

There is another option - get all the new fish at once and put them straight into the newly cycled tank. Wait at least two weeks to see if any of them come down with anything and if they don't, then move your current embers in with them. In other words, use the newly cycled tank as a quarantine tank.
If you want to wait before getting some of the new fish, get the rest and do this, then move the current embers over, then use the small tank as a QT when you get the final fish.

When a first tank has finished cycling all the fish are new, you aren't adding a possible disease to an existing tank. Moving the embers over then quarantining new fish a few at a time means you risk your newly grown bacteria going dormant during the quarantine period.

The previous owner of the site set up the CC and didn't like adding too many fish at once. He preferred to build up slowly. But the whole point of fishless cycling is that you can get all your fish at once as soon as the cycle is finished - though personally I wouldn't go to 100% on the CC immediately, but then I don't stock to 100% even after several years.

Last time the reason I said to start with half a dozen fish, then build up is because when things go wrong on small tanks, they go wrong fast. With 100 litres you have 4 times as much water as in the 23 litre tank so things won't go wrong nearly as fast, if they are going to go wrong. 10 embers in 23 litres is 86% stocked, which is quite a high stocking level if things had gone wrong.
However, just checking with the CC, 10 new embers, 16 neons (green neons are smaller hence the lower number) and 6 salt & pepper cories takes you to 80%, then with the embers you already have it takes you to 100%. I think I'd be inclined to say get 15 green neons, 5 embers and 6 cories (~60%) then when you move your current embers you'd have ~80% with 15 of each of the tetras rather than 20.
As I said, I don't like stocking to 100%.

Sunshine I know  my  tank is a lot smaller than yours, 60 cm 54 ish litres, but once it was cycled I stocked it 100%  because I had all my fish in a smaller nano tank and I needed to transfer them asap
Apart from one of my tiny corys which had an accident I still have all the same fish and I put them all in the 54 litre in April

I try to keep at or below 80%.
My 180 litre is currently being restocked following losses with the camallanus outbreak a few months ago. It stands at 58% at the moment. I want to get another species for there, taking it to just over 80% but when the last remnants of green neons, embers and microdevario die I won't replace them which will take me back down to around 75%.
The 50 litre is a bit tricky because Boraras aren't in the CC but once I move the fish from the QT it'll be somewhere in the region of 75 to 80% stocked.

And the betta's tank is well understocked with just the one fish in there, plus a small snail.

Yes it does. Externals free up space in the tank which the fish can use, and you can also add the volume of the filter into the volume of the tank. The amount of water inside the filter is part of the tank.
The CC also uses standard sized and oversized, with an oversized filter able to support more stocking than standard size for a filter type. But I can't remember how Peter defined oversized. Something at the back of my mind says oversized is a filter rated for a tank at least twice the volume of the one it is in.

The Eheim Classic 2213 is rated for up to 250 litres, making it oversized on a 100 litre tank. In which case you should be fine with your original stocking list. None of the fish in that are large, messy fish, the main limiting factor.

If your filters working OK (maintain it before you go away) there's absolutely no reason for ammonia to build up.

I bought most of my fish from a wholesaler and stocked 7 of my tanks to "100%" in one go. I put the " " because of course most of the fish were young and hence total length wasn't truly 100% at the time, though it is now. I didn't have any problems with fish or water parameters. There is no point in going through the full cycling process and then adding fish a few at a time.

What is the point of having a stocking guide and then saying it is wrong to stock to the limit?

Richard I wasn't saying I wouldn't have put all the fish in at the same time because like you say it's one of the reasons for cycling, I'll just never again go to 100%.
For my peace of mind it isn't worth it.
I can get somebody perhaps to come in an feed occasionally (measured out food) while I'm on  a fortnight's hols but asking somebody to hoik out dead or dying fish is another matter.
Thinking that through, it's just occurred to me, do I leave a quarantine tank set up and running in case somebody is brave enough to do that for me Hmmmm

I should perhaps have said that my tanks had been set up for over three months before I added fish, giving plenty of time for the plants to become established and spread. I do believe that a more complex ecosystem is more stable and so having a variety of plants, algae, no doubt many different bacteria, and even snails, is a better environment for fish. I did cycle with ammonia, though by squirting some in every few days rather than the careful measuring and testing. The only time I used the measuring method was to test before adding the fish. And of course I made large water changes just before adding the fish, but my subsequent changes have never exceeded 10% at a time.

There's a bit of a myth, I think, that having things like thread algae and snails in a tank, is somehow a sign of poor water quality, while crystal clear water and algae-free glass indicate a healthy tank, but there are many examples on here of people who have apparently "pristine" water conditions yet have still lost many fish. One reason I wanted to avoid adding fish little by little is that it seems by far the major source of disease is newly introduced fish. By adding all of my fish at once, at a time when I knew I would be able to keep a close eye on them, I was able to look out for signs of disease and be ready to treat if necessary. Once you have a disease-free tank, the chances of an outbreak are much lower if you don't add any more fish.

What Richard does is known as silent cycling. With this method the plants use virtually all the ammonia made by the fish and very few grow in the filter and other surfaces. He has heavily planted tanks and he waits 3 months before getting fish - in other words he waits for the plants to establish themselves in a tank and start growing nicely so that they will be ready to use all the ammonia his fish can make when they are finally added.

If, like me, you are useless at keeping plants alive or a newbie doesn't want to have live plants as they are "too difficult" then fishless cycling is better than fish-in cycling. But if a newbie has green fingers and is willing to follow Richard's example, that is an equally good method.

I didn't realise you'd used that much ammonia. I agree, true silent cycling wouldn't have used any.